Key Takeaways
Adaptability of Traditional Rules: Understanding that fashion rules, such as the "No Brown in Town," have evolved over time, allowing for more flexibility in modern menswear.
The Importance of Pattern Harmony: Emphasizing the need for careful consideration when mixing patterns like stripes and checks, with a nod to the versatility of polka dots in men’s fashion.
Appropriate Use of Accessories: Highlighting the importance of choosing the right accessories, like ties and pocket squares, and avoiding common fashion mistakes such as matching ties with pocket squares.
Formal Attire Guidelines: Stressing the importance of adhering to traditional rules in formal wear, such as black tie and white tie etiquette, and understanding the nuances of tuxedo details.
Footwear Etiquette: The appropriateness of shoe choices based on the formality of the outfit, especially the misstep of pairing formal shoes with casual trousers.
Shirt and Jacket Combinations: Explaining why certain combinations, like button-down shirts with double-breasted jackets, are traditionally considered incompatible.
Fabric Weight Coordination: The necessity of matching fabric weights appropriately in an ensemble, ensuring that trousers are not lighter than the jacket.
Sartorial Personalization: Encouraging personal style and comfort in clothing choices, acknowledging that pleasing oneself often leads to a more authentic and confident presentation.
Belt and Suspender Usage: Understanding that belts and suspenders serve different purposes in menswear and should not be used together.
Evolving Fashion Perspectives: Recognizing the value of being open to different viewpoints in fashion and the possibility of changing one's mind on style matters.
We delve into the sophisticated world of men's tailored clothing etiquette, focusing particularly on the timeless principles governing style and class in this sphere. Our post today brings a wealth of knowledge and experience to this topic.
Introduction
Understanding the Rules of Menswear
The central theme revolves around understanding and navigating the "rules" of menswear, a topic that often stirs much debate and inquiry. We frequently encounter queries about the compatibility of black shoes with certain trousers, or the appropriateness of mixing stripes with checks, among others. Our approach emphasizes the importance of personal confidence and judgment in style choices. However, we also acknowledge that certain guidelines, especially in formal settings, are worth adhering to.
We, known for our stringent adherence to sartorial rules, engage in exploring these guidelines. Through a series of questions, we aim to decipher when it is acceptable to bend these rules and under what circumstances they must be followed strictly.
The 'No Brown in Town' Rule
A prime example of such a rule is the well-known adage "No brown in town" or the prohibition of wearing brown shoes after 6 p.m. in urban settings. This rule, originating from a bygone era, prescribed black shoes for evening wear, especially when donning white ties or tuxedos. However, as we point out, times have evolved, and so have the rules. Dark brown or oxblood shoes are now considered perfectly acceptable for evening wear.
Stripes and Checks
Stripes with Checks: A cornerstone of the conversation is the compatibility of stripes with checks. We firmly oppose combining a check shirt with a striped tie or a pinstripe suit, citing a personal style code akin to our stance on black suits. However, we express a fondness for polka dots, which we believe can seamlessly complement various patterns, including checks and stripes. This perspective underscores the versatility of polka dots in men's fashion, particularly as a tie pattern. This also highlights the subjective nature of style, emphasizing personal comfort and confidence over rigid adherence to rules.
The Role of White Socks
White Socks: We now turn our attention to the appropriateness of white socks. Our stance is unequivocal: white socks are reserved for sports and Michael Jackson’s stage performances, not for formal or casual settings. This traditional view is contrasted with emerging trends in regions like Taiwan, where white socks are gaining elegance and sophistication. However, the consensus leans towards avoiding white socks in formal attire, aligning with bespoke and custom style norms.
Specific Clothing Items and Combinations
Short Sleeve Shirts
Short Sleeve Shirts: The debate on short sleeve shirts is straightforward. We dismiss them entirely for formal wear, advocating for rolling up long sleeves instead. This perspective reflects a commitment to classic, authentic style principles, though we acknowledge the practicality and acceptance of short sleeve polo shirts in casual settings.
Shoe Colour with Suits
Shoe Colour with Suits: A significant topic of debate is the pairing of shoe colours with suits, particularly the traditional rule against brown shoes with blue suits. We acknowledge the evolution in style norms, endorsing medium to dark brown shoes with dark navy suits. This modern stance reflects a departure from the more rigid conventions of the past, underscoring the dynamic nature of men's fashion.
Loafers and Socks
Loafers without Socks: We now addresses loafers and the etiquette surrounding wearing them with or without socks. We differentiate between rigid loafers, which should always be worn with socks, and soft moccasins, suitable for sockless wear in casual, summery settings. This nuanced understanding highlights the importance of context and functionality in tailored menswear choices.
Suits with Matching Shorts: The suitability of suits with matching shorts is appropriate in hot, humid climates like Hong Kong, suggesting it be paired with knee-high socks and formal shoes for a unique, old-world charm.
Formal Attire and Its Rules
Sneakers with Suits
Sneakers with Suits: We strongly oppose the pairing of sneakers with suits, declaring this combination a non-negotiable fashion faux pas. This stance reflects a commitment to traditional, authentic tailoring principles, where each element of an outfit must complement the overall formality of the ensemble.
Black Suits
Black Suits: We now discuss black suits, which we believe have a very limited place in a man's wardrobe, primarily for funerals. This view underscores the belief that black suits lack versatility and are not suitable for most occasions. While acknowledging that some may find a relaxed charm in wearing a black suit with an open white shirt for trendy events, we maintain a preference for the more classic tuxedo.
Black Tie and White Tie Etiquette
Black Tie and White Tie Etiquette: A significant importance is dedication to black tie and white tie etiquette, areas where we insist on strict adherence to traditional rules. We emphasize that these dress codes are codified for a reason: to allow men to present themselves elegantly while not overshadowing their female counterparts. The distinction lies in the cut, fabric, construction, and shoe choice, which can subtly set apart an individual's style while still adhering to the codified dress norms.
Wing Tip Collars
Wing Collars: A common mistake in men's formal wear, as pointed out by us, is the inappropriate use of wing collars with black tie attire. We clarify that wing collars should only be worn with white tie or frog coats, not with black tie, which should feature a standard or slightly cutaway collar.
Throughout this post, our expertise in bespoke and custom menswear shines through, as we articulate the subtle nuances and rules that govern men's tailored clothing. We stress the importance of grace and elegance, noting that these qualities stem from being comfortable and in harmony with one's attire. This post not only reinforces traditional sartorial values but also encourages personal confidence and poise in styling choices.
Shirt Collars
Shirt Collars: We express a strong disapproval of tiny shirt collars, which we view as an outdated and impractical trend. We argue for the elimination of such collars, favoring more substantial styles like the 'nero' or officer collar – a design without traditional collar points. We point out the absurdity of tiny collars that cannot properly accommodate a tie, underscoring our preference for collars that extend slightly under the jacket. This preference aligns with classic bespoke tailoring principles, where proportions and functionality play a vital role. There is some influence of fashion trends in popular brands, emphasizing that following these trends can lead to a loss of timeless elegance and authenticity in menswear.
Accessorizing in Men's Fashion
Tie Widths
Tie Widths: Moving to the topic of tie widths, we recommend a range between 3 1/8" - 3 3/4", with a personal preference for ties around 9.5 centimeters wide. We vehemently dismiss narrower ties, such as those measuring 2 3/8" - 2 3/4", labeling them as unappealing. This stance reflects a commitment to a balanced and proportional look, where the tie width complements the shirt collar and suit lapel sizes. We also caution against excessively wide ties, likening them to styles from 1970s U.S. television shows, which do not align with contemporary or classic sartorial standards.
Button-Down Shirts and Double-Breasted Jackets
Button-Down Shirts and Double-Breasted Jackets: A key point we address is the incompatibility of button-down shirts with double-breasted jackets. Our opinion, deeply rooted in sartorial tradition, is that these two elements do not harmonize together. While we appreciate both individually – button-down shirts for their casual elegance and double-breasted jackets for their formal flair – we firmly believe in not mixing them. This stance underscores a commitment to maintaining a clear distinction between casual and formal elements in menswear.
Ties with Button-Down Shirts
Ties with Button-Down Shirts: The appropriate type of tie to wear with a button-down shirt - we suggest that knitted, tweed, linen, or more rustic and sporty ties can complement button-down shirts effectively. This combination lends a balance between casual and slightly formal attire, illustrating the versatility of the button-down shirt in different settings.
Black Shoes with Casual Trousers
Black Shoes with Casual Trousers: A strong viewpoint we hold is the inappropriateness of pairing black shoes with chinos or other relaxed trousers. We emphasize that black shoes are inherently formal and should be reserved for formal attire. This includes black Oxfords, Derbies, and even black loafers under certain conditions. Our advice is to opt for brown, burgundy, or other shades when wearing casual trousers like chinos, jeans, or corduroys. This distinction reinforces the principle of keeping footwear in sync with the formality level of the outfit.
Advanced Style Tips
Dress Shoes and Trousers
Black Suede Shoes: There is a somewhat controversial topic of black suede shoes. We view them as an aberration, lacking purpose in a well-curated wardrobe. We note that black suede tends to lose its deep black tone over time, becoming greyish, which further detracts from its appeal. This opinion highlights a preference for traditional materials and colors in men's footwear, aligning with bespoke and custom tailoring standards.
Dress Shoes and Trousers
Dress Shoes and Trousers: We emphasize the importance of pairing formal, finely crafted shoes, such as slim, bevelled-waist Oxfords, with trousers that feature a crisp, central crease. This combination, we assert, is essential for maintaining a classy and sophisticated appearance. We criticize the mismatch of such elegant shoes with casual trousers like chinos or jeans, noting a clear discrepancy in style. This perspective underscores the principle of coherence in formal dressing, where each element of the attire should complement the others in terms of formality and style.
Fabric Weight Matching
Fabric Weight Matching: A critical rule highlighted by us is ensuring that the fabric of trousers is never lighter than that of the jacket. We provide examples such as the incompatibility of a tweed jacket with linen pants, explaining that such a mismatch creates a visual and tactile dissonance. Conversely, it's acceptable, even preferable, for trousers to be heavier than the jacket. This rule underscores the importance of fabric weight in achieving a balanced and aesthetically pleasing ensemble.
Waistcoat (Vest) Etiquette
Waistcoat (Vest) Etiquette: Regarding the wearing of waistcoats without jackets, we view this as acceptable, provided the waistcoat is properly buttoned, leaving the bottom button undone. We also touch on the versatility of waistcoats, explaining that they can be worn with a shirt, either with an open neck or a neckerchief, for a smart yet relaxed look. However, we disapprove of wearing a pinstripe waistcoat from a suit independently with jeans, preferring contrasting or 'odd' waistcoats for a more distinctive and stylish appearance.
Belts, Suspenders, and Side Adjusters
Belts, Suspenders, and Side Adjusters: We distinguish between the use of belts and suspenders, recommending that they never be worn together. We prefer belts for casual garments such as chinos and jeans, finding them more suitable for the casual aesthetic. For formal trousers, especially those with a higher waist, we favor suspenders for both comfort and aesthetic reasons. This preference highlights the importance of choosing accessories that complement the formality and style of the outfit while also providing personal comfort.
Tie and Pocket Square Coordination
Tie and Pocket Square Coordination: A crucial point we stress is the avoidance of matching ties with pocket squares. We view this as a fashion misstep, suggesting it detracts from the individuality and sophistication of the ensemble. Instead, we encourage experimenting with pocket squares, advocating for the freedom to play with colors and patterns. This approach underlines the value of pocket squares as a versatile accessory that can add a unique touch to an outfit.
Fabric Preferences for Pocket Squares
Fabric Preferences for Pocket Squares: We express a preference for linen, cotton, or a blend of the two for pocket squares, rather than silk. We find these materials more practical and stylish, offering a better hold when folded. This preference underscores the importance of functionality and aesthetics in choosing accessories.
Personal Style and Openness to Change: It is important to reflect on the importance of being open to different viewpoints and the possibility of changing one's mind on style matters. We emphasize the value of personal satisfaction and comfort in clothing choices, suggesting that pleasing oneself often leads to a more authentic and confident presentation.
While some gentlemen might still adhere to the traditional "No brown in town" rule, it is, in essence, a relic of the past. The modern interpretation leans towards avoiding light brown in urban evening settings, favouring darker shades instead. This new guideline, however, has its exceptions, such as in more casual, resort-like settings.
Our motto, "First learn the rule, then break them," encapsulates the essence of this post. Understanding the foundation of these sartorial principles is crucial before one can confidently and stylishly deviate from them. This exploration into men's tailored clothing etiquette not only highlights the importance of bespoke, custom, and authentic styling but also reflects the dynamic nature of fashion and the ever-evolving interpretation of style rules.
Westwood Hart, a paragon of bespoke men's fashion, seamlessly aligns with the nuanced insights shared in our discussion on tailored clothing. Our expertise in crafting garments that respect traditional etiquette while embracing modernity makes them an ideal choice for the discerning gentleman. Whether it's mastering the intricacies of pattern harmony, adhering to formal attire guidelines, or understanding the subtleties of fabric weight coordination, our dedication to authentic, custom styling ensures a wardrobe that is both timeless and reflective of personal style. Our approach to men's fashion not only upholds the principles of classic elegance but also encourages a confident, individualistic expression in sartorial choices.