Key Takeaways
- Essential Suit: Owning a single, versatile suit in a classic colour like navy or charcoal is essential for various formal and professional occasions.
- Fabric and Fit: Prioritize high-quality worsted wool for its durability and year-round comfort, and ensure the suit is well-fitted.
- Jacket Styles: Opt for a single-breasted jacket for maximum versatility, and consider classic notched lapels.
- Detailed Customization: Attention to details such as pocket styles, button materials, and vent options significantly enhances the suit's overall look and functionality.
- Investment in Quality: Investing in a well-constructed suit made from premium materials ensures long-term value and impeccable style.
The One Essential Suit Every Man Needs
We believe if you were to only have one suit, what should it be? It's no surprise that we are avid enthusiasts of suits – wearing them, collecting them, and discussing them. While growing a collection of suits can be enjoyable, it raises an interesting question: if you could only have one suit, what should it ideally be? This exploration is for those on the hunt for their first suit or looking to streamline their wardrobe.
Navigating Modern Formality: The Case for Owning a Suit
First and foremost, let's delve into the challenges faced when selecting a suit today. The initial challenge is formality. In our previous discussions about the possible decline of the suit and the supposed end of quality menswear, we noted the growing casualness of the 21st century. It is increasingly common for workplaces to replace the traditional business suit with more casual attire. However, the question remains: does the average man need a collection of suits for the workweek?
Balancing Cost and Quality in Suit Selection
Next is the issue of cost. Suits can appear quite expensive compared to polo shirts and jeans, especially for modern men who may be less experienced in purchasing them. Additionally, the multitude of options for customizing and choosing different suit details can be overwhelming for newcomers. Given these considerations, you might wonder if you need a suit at all. Let us reassure you by affirming that, indeed, you should have at least one suit in your wardrobe.
Key Occasions That Require a Classic Suit
Throughout any man's life, there are events that necessitate a higher level of formality than usual. This is where owning one classic suit proves invaluable. Consider weddings, funerals, christenings, and other religious ceremonies, where a suit signifies respect. Romantic engagements, graduations, celebratory meals at fine restaurants, and business contexts such as job interviews or client meetings also call for a suit, marking your professionalism and personal investment in the event. Therefore, owning the right suit prepares you for nearly any occasion.
Styling Your Suit: Colours, Accessories, and Versatility
Wearing a suit is fundamentally about looking and feeling great, which makes getting the styling details right crucial.
Let's start with colour, as it significantly influences a suit's formality. If you have only one suit and wish to wear it in various settings, we recommend a dark suit in either charcoal grey or navy blue. Dark suits are inherently more formal but can be dressed down with appropriate accessories. Conversely, lighter-coloured suits are challenging to formalize, making darker suits more versatile. We have consistently advised against making your only suit a black suit unless you want to resemble an undertaker or a missing Blues Brother.
A black suit is overly austere and formal for many occasions, ages poorly due to the difficulty in maintaining a true black through dry cleaning, and is, overall, one of the most overrated colours in menswear. On the other hand, a charcoal or navy suit offers vibrancy and visual interest through garments like shirts, socks, or shoes, and accessories such as ties, pocket squares, boutonnieres, and shoelaces. Just because we are discussing having only one suit does not mean we limit ourselves to just one tie or pocket square.
Choosing the Right Jacket: Single-Breasted vs. Double-Breasted
The next question then is one breast or two? And no, we're not referring to fried chicken. While it is relatively simple to dress up or down a single-breasted suit, a double-breasted suit presents more of a challenge in this regard. For inspiration, you might find this video helpful. Despite experiencing peaks in popularity during the 1930s and 40s, the 1980s, and again in the 2010s with the release of the Kingsman films, the single-breasted suit has remained a steadfast choice since its inception.
Single-breasted suits offer versatility, easily paired with a matching waistcoat or vest. For a more distinctive look, you can opt for a contrasting odd waistcoat, enhancing your outfit options. Unless you have a particular fondness for the double-breasted suit and believe it will suit all your potential occasions, we recommend the single-breasted suit as your primary option.
Lapels and Pockets: Enhancing Your Suit's Versatility
Lapels also significantly impact the formality of your suit. Notched lapels are generally the best choice as they are standard for business suits and suitable for a wide range of occasions. Keeping the lapel width within the classic range of around 4 inches (10 centimetres) ensures they do not draw excessive attention. While considering your stature when determining lapel width can be beneficial, adhering to this general range should suffice, avoiding extremes in either direction.
However, if your preferences incline towards the more formal, tastefully-proportioned peaked lapels can be a viable option. Should they complement your face and frame, and you feel comfortable wearing them, they can certainly be incorporated into your suit design.
Pockets
Next, we turn our attention to pockets, beginning with the exterior ones. This often overlooked aspect of suit design can significantly influence a suit's appearance. Generally, the three main pocket types, from most casual to most formal, are patch pockets, flap pockets, and jetted pockets. For maximum versatility, flapped pockets are typically the best choice, balancing formality and practicality.
Slanted pockets have recently gained popularity among gentlemen's suits. Historically considered sportier and more fashion-forward, they complement slim gentlemen well and can create an illusion of slimness for more portly gentlemen. Additionally, the ticket pocket is a traditional feature you might consider adding to your suit, although it introduces a slight asymmetry to the jacket.
Breast Pockets
When it comes to selecting a breast pocket, you have similar options to those for your hip pockets, with the addition of the increasingly popular curved or barchetta pocket. This option adds a subtle flair and a relaxed touch to the jacket. However, for maximum versatility, a straight breast pocket is likely the best choice. Exterior pockets significantly influence the overall look of your suit, but let's briefly examine interior pockets as well.
Interior Pockets
Interior pockets primarily serve for personal utility. If you prefer more pockets than the conventional two interior breast pockets, such as a fountain pen slip pocket, it is a matter of personal preference.
Buttons and Vents: Detailed Decisions for Suit Customisation
Buttons are another critical aspect of your suit. Generally, buttons made of mother of pearl, horn, or corozo nut are excellent investments. These materials enhance both the aesthetics and durability of your suit. They add a touch of elegance and, if maintained properly, can outlast conventional plastic buttons. For your navy or charcoal suit, dark blue, dark grey, or dark natural horn buttons are typically suitable. High-contrast buttons, while fun, tend to make an outfit more casual and reduce its versatility. Save gold buttons for blazers and other colourful buttons for when you expand your collection further.
More important than the button material is their arrangement. The most common choices for single-breasted suits are two-button, three-roll-two, or three-button styles, with one-button jackets gaining popularity at different times. For most situations, a two-button jacket or three-roll-two style, which functions similarly to a two-button, are the most versatile options. They strike a good balance in formality, unlike the three-button jacket, which with its high buttoning stance, can appear overly formal and somewhat stuffy. Additionally, three-button jackets can look a bit dated.
Thus, when selecting your one suit, focusing on these details—pocket styles, button materials and arrangements—will ensure your suit is versatile, stylish, and suitable for a wide range of occasions.
When it comes to cuff buttons, the traditional standard established by English tailors is four buttons. This is widely accepted as the norm. However, if you wish to infuse a bit of personality into your suit, you might consider opting for three or five cuff buttons. Any deviation beyond these numbers, however, can become distracting.
Jacket Vents
Moving on to the jacket, let's briefly discuss vents. The back of a jacket typically offers three options: no vent, a single vent, or a double vent. A jacket without a vent is the most formal and traditional choice, and it looks best when the suit is perfectly tailored to your physique. However, it can appear somewhat awkward when you are seated or if you frequently place your hands in your pockets. The single vent has roots in horseback riding and other casual activities, and it retains a casual connotation. Therefore, for a versatile suit, we recommend the middle-ground option of a double vent.
Trousers: Pleats, Cuffs, and Fit Considerations
As we shift focus to trousers, the key decisions involve pleats versus no pleats and cuffs versus no cuffs. These choices largely depend on comfort, body type, and personal preference. For instance, flat-front trousers generally suit a slimmer build, while pleated trousers provide additional comfort and are often preferred by those with larger thighs. Cuffed trousers, also known as turn-ups in British English, offer a traditional aesthetic and help trousers hang better, though they are less formal and not suitable for formalwear such as Black Tie or White Tie events. On the other hand, plain hems offer a cleaner, sleeker look and are more formal, though cuffs cannot be added later if there is no fabric reserve.
Consider high-waisted or high-rise trousers for a classic look, as these can provide a flattering silhouette and additional comfort. When contemplating trouser hems, think ahead about the level of formality you desire. Cuffs can be removed if necessary, while plain hems remain permanent unless you have extra fabric to add cuffs later.
Next, let's delve into fine detailing. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, features such as Milanese buttonholes and working cuff buttons, often referred to as "surgeon's cuffs," signified a high-quality suit. While modern manufacturing techniques have made these details more common even in lower-quality suits, they still add a touch of sophistication. Vertical pockets on trousers can be practical for discreetly carrying items, and side adjusters offer flexibility for weight fluctuations.
When selecting additional suit details, choose elements that you genuinely like and can afford, keeping in mind that subtlety is more elegant than ostentation. Regardless of whether you need just one suit or several, the most crucial factor is the fit. Avoid extremely slim cuts that may be fashionable now but could soon look dated, as well as overly loose or billowy suits that do not flatter your figure. Aim for a neutral, well-fitted cut that accentuates your best features without extremes.
For most, a ready-to-wear suit is a practical choice. With some alterations, an off-the-rack suit can meet many of the criteria we’ve discussed. This approach offers a balance between cost and quality, allowing you to achieve a good fit and include many of the desired details without the expense of a high-end bespoke suit.
Fabric and Construction: Investing in Quality
When selecting fabric for your suit, worsted wool stands out as the gold standard for most business suits. This material offers a balanced combination of durability, insulation in colder weather, and breathability in warmer conditions, making it an excellent choice for a year-round suit. While lighter-weight fabrics might seem appealing for their perceived comfort in heat, they often lack the structure to drape well and are prone to wrinkling. To maintain comfort without sacrificing style, consider a suit with half-lining if you reside in a warmer climate. In extremely hot or tropical areas, linen or other lightweight fabrics might be preferable, although they lack the versatility of worsted wool. Conversely, in very cold climates, a heavyweight wool flannel suit, possibly layered with overcoats, would be more appropriate. Fabrics like seersucker or tweed, while stylish, do not offer the same versatility as worsted wool.
Cost Considerations: Budgeting for Your Suit
Investing in the construction of your suit can turn it into a true investment piece. The cumulative cost of several lower-quality suits over the years can instead be directed towards a single high-quality suit that, with proper care, can last decades and offer an excellent cost-per-wear ratio. The discomfort often associated with suits typically arises from wearing lower-quality options. Hence, for your singular suit, prioritize high-quality workmanship and materials at the highest price point you can reasonably afford.
Ready-to-Wear vs. Bespoke: Making the Right Choice for Your Suit
The construction of the jacket significantly impacts the overall comfort and longevity of a suit. Modern ready-to-wear suits increasingly feature canvassed interlining, which molds to your body over time, enhancing comfort. A high-quality suit will avoid inferior fabrics such as polyester or nylon, which are not breathable, uncomfortable, and can appear shiny and cheap. Instead, opt for suits with natural fibers and canvassed interlining, which provide better fit, durability, and comfort. Additionally, a well-constructed suit avoids poor workmanship, ensuring no loose threads, tears, or unattractive cuts, and features armholes cut to allow unrestricted movement.
Determining how much to spend on your suit ultimately depends on your financial situation. Investing in quality up front can yield significant long-term benefits. However, remember that a well-made suit need not always be expensive. Vintage suits can offer excellent quality and unique style at a lower cost. For tips on effective vintage shopping, resources are available, and online shopping can also provide a wealth of options for finding quality suits within your budget.
In summary, a single, well-chosen suit made from high-quality worsted wool and constructed with care will serve you well for years, providing comfort, versatility, and style. Prioritize fit and craftsmanship, and consider the climate and your specific needs when selecting fabric and construction details.
At Westwood Hart, we pride ourselves on crafting bespoke tailored suits that reflect the individuality and sophistication of each client. Our commitment to quality ensures that every custom suit is meticulously crafted using the finest fabrics and superior construction techniques. Whether you're attending a formal event, a business meeting, or a celebratory dinner, a Westwood Hart suit guarantees you will look and feel your best. Embrace the opportunity to design your unique style with our online configurator and experience the elegance of bespoke tailoring.