Key Takeaways
- Check Patterns Defined: Check patterns consist of intersecting horizontal and vertical lines forming squares or rectangles.
- Types of Checks: Explore various check patterns, including graph check, windowpane, Tattersall, gingham, shepherd's check, gun club check, tartan, Madras, and Glen check.
- Styling with Checks: Learn how to incorporate check patterns into your wardrobe through accessories, shirts, jackets, trousers, waistcoats, and suits.
- Formality and Boldness: Understand how the intensity, colour, and density of check patterns influence their formality and boldness.
- Versatility in Menswear: Check patterns can be dressed up or down, making them a versatile choice for both casual and formal settings.
Understanding Check Patterns in Bespoke Menswear
Check patterns in menswear have a long and storied history, remaining a popular choice in contemporary tailored clothing. The essence of these patterns lies in their simple geometry, formed by horizontal and vertical lines intersecting at right angles to create squares or rectangles. This exploration delves into various check patterns and how they can be stylishly incorporated into one's wardrobe.
The Fundamentals of Authentic Check Patterns
A check pattern, by definition, consists of intersecting horizontal and vertical lines meeting at right angles to form squares or rectangles. The weaving technique and the colour of the yarns used to create these patterns result in different types of checks. While other patterns like Argyle also emerge from intersecting lines, they often do not meet at right angles, distinguishing them from true check patterns.
Exploring Different Types of Custom Check Patterns
Graph Check: A Classic Menswear Pattern
Graph check, also known as box check, is characterised by its simple intersection of horizontal and vertical lines, resembling graph paper. The boxes in a graph check are typically small, about a quarter of an inch or smaller, with larger patterns being more informal. This pattern is commonly seen in shirts and ties. When evaluating the quality of a graph check garment, one should check if the pattern aligns neatly at the seams.
The Elegance of Windowpane Check in Tailored Clothing
Windowpane checks are a variation of graph checks with larger squares or rectangles. The pattern, which resembles window panes, can vary in formality depending on the definition and colour of the lines. Bolder and more colourful windowpanes are less formal, whereas subdued and lighter ones are more formal. The density of the pattern also affects its formality.
Tattersall: A British Staple in Custom Tailoring
Tattersall patterns consist of two or more complementary coloured lines intersecting to create uniform boxes. Originating from horse blankets in 18th century Britain, Tattersall has become a staple of British country style, often seen in office settings as well. Its versatility in combining with ties and accessories makes it a popular choice.
Gingham: The Simplest Check Pattern with Rural Charm
Gingham, sometimes called Vichy in Europe, is the simplest of checks, featuring thicker lines of a single colour crossing on a white background, reminiscent of a checkerboard. Gingham is often associated with casual settings, evoking thoughts of picnic blankets and casual dining. This pattern is typically seen in shirts and can add a touch of rural simplicity to an outfit.
Shepherd's Check: A Traditional Scottish Design
Shepherd's check, originally worn by Scottish shepherds, resembles gingham but includes a visible twill pattern, adding visual interest. It is often seen in single colours on a white background and is popular in ties and jackets. Shepherd's check is closely related to houndstooth, sharing a similar simplicity and visual appeal.
Gun Club Check: American Style with Scottish Roots
Gun club check, with its roots in Scottish district checks, became popular in America for shooting sports. Originally featuring four colours—black, rust, gold, and green—it now commonly appears in two colours like brown and blue. This pattern often includes a visible twill and can be mistaken for shepherd's check due to their similarities.
Tartan: The Rich Heritage of Scottish Clan Patterns
Tartan, associated with Scottish clans, features intersecting lines of varying thickness and colours. It is versatile, suitable for both casual and formal settings depending on the colour scheme. In the United States, tartan is often associated with cowboys and lumberjacks. The term "plaid" is often used interchangeably with tartan in America, though not all plaids are tartans.
Madras: Vibrant Summer Checks from India
Madras, named after the Indian city of Chennai, is a hand-woven cotton fabric known for its bright and summery colours. Popular in mid-20th century American summer wear, Madras often features patterns resembling tartans but with more vibrant hues.
Glen Check and Prince of Wales: Sophisticated Menswear Patterns
Glen check, sometimes called Glen plaid, features a pattern of rectangles and may incorporate hints of other patterns like houndstooth. Originating in Scotland and popularised by Edward VII, Glen check is often seen in tailored menswear. The Prince of Wales check, a variation of Glen check with an additional overcheck in a different colour, adds depth to the pattern.
How to Wear Check Patterns in Custom Tailored Clothing
Incorporating check patterns into your wardrobe should reflect your personality and comfort with bold designs. Accessories like ties, scarves, and pocket squares are a great starting point. For shirts, a graph check or micro check offers a subtle introduction to checks, while a Tattersall shirt pairs well with ties for a smart-casual look.
The Bold Statement of Checked Jackets and Trousers
Jackets with check patterns make a bold statement, with the intensity of the pattern affecting the overall look. Pairing a patterned jacket with solid trousers is a safe choice, while checked trousers are less common and usually make a bold statement. A waistcoat with a check pattern can add a touch of boldness without overwhelming the outfit, especially if it complements the colours in the rest of the wardrobe.
The Stylish Choice of Checked Overcoats
Check suits are generally bold, with their acceptability depending on the office environment and personal style. A windowpane suit is less bold than a full plaid suit, which is challenging to wear without appearing ostentatious. A checked overcoat can be a stylish choice, adding visual interest to a more subdued outfit.
Versatility of Checks: Dressing Up or Down in Menswear
By understanding the various types of checks and how to wear them, you can confidently incorporate these patterns into your wardrobe, adding both visual interest and sophistication to your tailored clothing. The versatility of checks ensures they can be dressed up or down, making them a timeless choice in men's fashion.
When it comes to bespoke tailoring, Westwood Hart stands out for its impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. Whether you're looking for a classic Glen check suit, a bold windowpane jacket, or a sophisticated Tattersall shirt, Westwood Hart offers a wide range of options to suit your style. Each garment is custom-tailored to ensure a perfect fit, combining traditional techniques with modern sensibilities. Elevate your wardrobe with a unique piece from Westwood Hart and experience the difference of authentic custom tailoring. Design your suit today with our online configurator and create a style that is distinctly yours.