If you are extra tall or shorter than most, you may have difficulty finding the right length off the rack. You're probably already used to having all your purchases altered to fit. The most important things to look for in any of your purchases and alterations are the proportions and keeping everything in balance. Here are some tips when shopping for the right fit.

Tall Men
If you are tall, you are used to finding a retailer who make a ‘long cut’. These cuts are designed for people who are tall and thin, without an increase in the actual suit size. Before making custom suits with us, we had clients who bought their suits a couple of sizes bigger, just so they could get the right length in the sleeves and pants. However, to make the suit then fit the client’s frame, even after reconstructing and resizing the entire suit, and after countless alterations, the size is correct, but the button position and lapel length are not in the right proportions, and the whole suit looks out of balance. It’s best to look for a suit that is your size, and then have the lengths adjusted. Tip: New trousers can usually be lengthened by up to 2 inches, and jacket sleeves usually by 1 ½ inch. Unfortunately, if the jacket length is too short, it can’t be made longer by much.

The tell-tale sign of an ill-fitting jacket is when the buttons on the jacket sit too high on the body. Instead of buttoning at the waist, the jacket buttons at the chest, and therefore the whole upper body will look out of proportion, almost like the man is shrugging his shoulders all the time. The first button on a two-button jacket, or the second button on a three-button jacket should sit level with the smallest part of your waist.

Short Men
Similarly, we have seen men avoid buying suits in the correct size, thinking the sleeves and pants are too long. They then buy a size that is too small because the length seems to fit better. The sleeves and the hems on the trousers can easily be shortened, and the jacket length can be usually shortened by up to 1 inch. However, if the suit is too small, the amount that can be let out is very limited. We often recommend customers purchase the correct size, then have the length adjusted. Once shortened, make sure you have the legs or sleeves tapered, so the whole look remains in proportion. Check that the same button rule applies as for tall guys – where the first button should sit level with the smallest part of the waist. To check the length of the jacket hem is the correct length, relax your arms by your side. The hem should line up with the knuckle of your hand.