Selecting the right fabric is more than just a matter of aesthetics – it's about creating a garment that truly works for you. Here's why fabric choice is so crucial:

Comfort: The fabric you choose directly impacts how comfortable your garment feels. A breathable fabric like cotton or linen can keep you cool in summer, while a soft wool blend provides warmth in winter.

Durability: Different fabrics have varying levels of durability. Choosing the right one ensures your custom garment stands the test of time and maintains its shape and appearance.

Appearance: Fabric affects how your garment drapes on your body and how it looks in different lighting conditions. It can make you appear polished and professional or relaxed and casual.

Functionality: Consider your lifestyle and the garment's intended use. A travel-friendly, wrinkle-resistant fabric might be perfect for the frequent flyer, while a luxurious silk blend could be ideal for special occasions.

Seasonality: The right fabric choice allows you to wear your garment comfortably across seasons or creates the perfect piece for specific weather conditions.

Maintenance: Some fabrics require special care, while others are easy to maintain. Your choice will impact how you care for your garment in the long run.

Personal style: Fabric is a key element in expressing your personal style. It can help you achieve the exact look and feel you're after, whether that's classic, modern, or somewhere in between.

By carefully considering your fabric choice, you're ensuring that your custom garment not only looks great but also performs well and suits your lifestyle. In the following sections, we'll delve into specific fabric types and considerations to help you make the best choice for your needs.

Choosing the right fabric for your custom-tailored suit or jacket is crucial to ensure you look and feel your best. Here's a guide to help you match fabrics with different settings:

Business Formal

• Worsted wool: Sleek and professional for year-round wear
• Super 120s-150s wool: Refined look for high-level business meetings
• Mohair blend: For a sharp, crisp look with natural sheen
• Best for: Corporate offices, important client meetings, high-stakes presentations

Business Professional

• Mid-weight wool (Super 100s-120s): Versatile for everyday office wear
• Wool with subtle patterns (e.g., pinstripes): Adds interest while maintaining professionalism
• Wool/silk blend: Adds a touch of luxury to business attire
• Best for: Daily office wear, client interactions, business lunches

Business Casual

• Lightweight wool or wool blend: For a relaxed yet put-together look
• Cotton or cotton blend: Breathable option for less formal offices
• Linen blend: For a smart summer business-casual look
• Best for: Casual Fridays, creative industries, tech companies

Formal Events

• Super 150s+ wool: Luxurious choice for black-tie events
• Wool barathea: Traditional choice for tuxedos
• Velvet: Elegant option for formal dinner jackets
• Best for: Galas, weddings, awards ceremonies, formal dinners

Smart Casual

• Textured wool (e.g., tweed, flannel): Adds interest to a relaxed look
• Wool/cashmere blend: Luxurious feel for upscale casual events
• Corduroy: Adds texture for a sophisticated yet relaxed appearance
• Best for: Networking events, casual dinner parties, art openings

Seasonal Events

• Lightweight wool or tropical wool: For spring/summer weddings
• Linen or linen blend: For summer garden parties or outdoor events
• Heavier weight wool or flannel: For fall/winter formal occasions
• Velvet: For winter holiday parties
• Best for: Outdoor wedding ceremonies, seasonal celebrations, holiday gatherings

Travel

• High-twist wool: Naturally wrinkle-resistant for business trips
• Wool/polyester blend: Easy-care option for frequent travelers
• Fresco wool: Breathable and quick-drying for various climates
• Best for: Business trips, destination weddings, conference presentations

Remember, these are general guidelines. The right fabric choice also depends on the specific event, your personal style, and the climate. Our expert tailors can help you select the perfect fabric for your needs.

Choosing a fabric that's appropriate for the climate ensures you'll be comfortable and look your best year-round. Here's a guide to help you select the right fabrics for different weather conditions:

Hot Weather

• Lightweight wool (200-240 g/m²): Breathable and moisture-wicking
• Tropical weight wool (180-220 g/m²): Specially designed for warm climates
• Linen or linen blends (200-220 g/m²): Extremely breathable and cool
• Fresco wool (240-280 g/m²): Open weave allows for air circulation
• Cotton (180-220 g/m²): Breathable and comfortable in heat
• Best for: Summer suits, warm climate business wear
• Tips: Look for unlined or partially lined jackets to increase breathability.

Cold Weather

• Heavy wool (350-400 g/m²): Provides excellent insulation
• Flannel (300-350 g/m²): Soft and warm for winter wear
• Tweed (350-400 g/m²): Durable and warm with a classic look
• Cashmere blends (300-350 g/m²): Luxuriously soft and warm
• Worsted wool with a tight weave (300-350 g/m²): Blocks wind effectively
• Best for: Winter suits, overcoats, cold climate business wear
• Tips: Consider a fully lined jacket for added warmth.

All-Round Weather

• Medium weight wool (260-300 g/m²): Versatile for year-round wear
• Wool with high twist yarns (260-300 g/m²): Breathable yet insulating
• Wool/silk blends (240-280 g/m²): Adaptable to various temperatures
• Four-season wool (240-280 g/m²): Specially designed for year-round comfort
• Best for: Versatile suits for temperate climates or indoor wear
• Tips: These fabrics offer the most flexibility for changing seasons or indoor/outdoor transitions.

Transitional Seasons (Spring/Fall)

• Lightweight tweeds (280-320 g/m²): Add warmth without being too heavy
• Wool/cotton blends (240-280 g/m²): Balance of warmth and breathability
• Gabardine (260-300 g/m²): Water-resistant for unpredictable weather
• Best for: Suits and jackets for spring and fall
• Tips: Layer these suits with appropriate shirts and accessories to adapt to temperature fluctuations.

Remember, personal comfort levels and specific local climates can affect your choice. Our tailors can provide more personalized recommendations based on your needs and location.

When choosing a fabric for your custom suit or jacket, it's important to consider how different design elements will affect the overall look and feel of your garment. Here are some key design factors to keep in mind:

Texture

• Smooth fabrics (e.g., fine worsted wool): Create a sleek, formal appearance
• Textured fabrics (e.g., tweed, flannel): Add visual interest and a more casual feel
• Subtle textures (e.g., herringbone, birdseye): Offer depth without being too bold

Patterns

• Solid colors: Versatile and easy to match with other items
• Pinstripes: Classic business look, can create a slimming effect
• Windowpane: Adds visual interest while maintaining professionalism
• Glen plaid (Prince of Wales check): Sophisticated pattern for a smart-casual look
• Houndstooth: Bold pattern that works well for statement pieces

Sheen

• Matte finish: Traditional look, suitable for most business environments
• Slight sheen (e.g., mohair blend): Adds a touch of elegance, great for evening wear
• High sheen (e.g., certain wool/silk blends): Creates a luxurious look for formal events

Drape

• Stiff fabrics: Hold their shape well, good for structured looks
• Soft, flowing fabrics: Create a more relaxed, natural silhouette

Color

• Navy and charcoal: Versatile colors suitable for most occasions
• Light grey and tan: Great for spring/summer or more casual looks
• Black: Traditional for formal evening wear
• Bold colors: Make a statement, but consider versatility

Seasonality in Design

• Spring/Summer: Lighter colors, open weaves
• Fall/Winter: Deeper colors, heavier textures

Remember, the design elements you choose should reflect your personal style while also considering the garment's intended use. Our tailors can help you balance these factors to create a suit or jacket that's perfect for you.

Choosing the right color for your custom suit or jacket is crucial for both style and versatility. Here are some key points to consider when selecting fabric colors:

Classic Colors

• Navy Blue: Extremely versatile, suitable for most occasions
• Charcoal Grey: Professional and easy to pair with various shirt colors
• Medium Grey: Versatile for both business and casual settings
• Black: Traditional for formal evening wear, but less versatile for daytime
• These colors form the foundation of a well-rounded wardrobe and are excellent choices for your first custom suits.

Seasonal Colors

• Spring/Summer: Light grey, tan, light blue, cream
• Fall/Winter: Dark brown, deep green, burgundy, camel
• Seasonal colors can add variety to your wardrobe and are great for second or third suits.

Complementing Your Skin Tone

• Cool skin tones: Blues, greys, and jewel tones
• Warm skin tones: Browns, greens, and earth tones
• Neutral skin tones: Most colors work well

Versatility

• Solid colors: Most versatile, easy to mix and match
• Subtle patterns: Add interest while maintaining versatility
• Bold patterns or colors: Make a statement but may be less versatile

Business vs. Casual

• Business: Stick to darker, more muted colors
• Casual: Lighter shades and bolder colors can work well

Expanding Your Wardrobe

• Consider colors that complement items you already own
• Add variety by choosing colors different from your existing suits

Trends

• While it's fine to consider current color trends, remember that classic colors will stand the test of time

Lighting

• Fabric colors can look different under various lighting conditions
• If possible, view fabric samples in natural light as well as indoor lighting

Remember, the right color for you depends on your personal style, profession, and the occasions for which you'll be wearing the garment. Our tailors can help you choose colors that not only look great but also serve your specific needs.

Understanding fabric weight and Super numbers is crucial when selecting the right material for your custom suit or jacket. These factors affect the garment's comfort, durability, and overall look.

Understanding fabric weight and Super numbers is crucial when selecting the right material for your custom suit or jacket. These factors affect the garment's comfort, durability, and overall look.

Fabric Weight

Fabric weight is measured in grams per square meter (g/m²). Here's a general guide:

Lightweight: 180-240 g/m²

• Ideal for summer or hot climates
• More breathable but may wrinkle easily

Medium weight: 260-300 g/m²

• Versatile for year-round wear
• Good balance of durability and comfort

Heavy weight: 320-400 g/m²

• Best for winter or cold climates
• Durable and drapes well, but can be warm

Super Numbers

Super numbers refer to the fineness of the wool fiber. The higher the number, the finer and softer the wool:

Super 100s-120s:

• Durable and practical for everyday wear
• Good balance of softness and resilience

Super 130s-150s:

• Softer and more luxurious feel
• Suitable for special occasions or premium business wear

Super 160s and above:

• Extremely soft and luxurious
• More delicate and requires careful maintenance

Considerations

Climate: Choose lighter weights for warm climates, heavier for cold

Frequency of wear: Lower Super numbers are more durable for frequent use

Occasion: Higher Super numbers for formal events, lower for everyday wear

Maintenance: Higher Super numbers require more careful handling

Finding the Right Balance

For your first custom suit, a medium weight fabric (around 280 g/m²) in Super 110s-120s is often a good choice

As you expand your wardrobe, you can explore different weights and Super numbers for various needs

Remember, while higher Super numbers might feel more luxurious, they're not always the best choice for every situation. Our tailors can help you find the perfect balance of weight and fineness for your specific needs and preferences.

When choosing fabric for your custom suit or jacket, the brand can be an important factor. Different fabric mills are known for their unique qualities, traditions, and specialties. Here's an overview of some renowned fabric brands and what they're known for:

English Mills

Holland & Sherry

• Known for: Luxurious wools and exotic blends
• Specialty: Wide range of Super numbers and unique patterns

Dormeuil

• Known for: Innovative fabrics and high-end wools
• Specialty: Technologically advanced fabrics like Tonik Wool

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds

• Known for: Traditional Yorkshire woolen fabrics
• Specialty: Classic British looks and durable business suitings

Italian Mills

Vitale Barberis Canonico

• Known for: Versatile fabrics with a rich history
• Specialty: Excellent value for quality fabrics

Loro Piana

• Known for: Ultra-luxurious natural fibers
• Specialty: Premium wools, cashmere, and unique blends

Zegna

• Known for: Modern, high-performance fabrics
• Specialty: Innovative treatments and contemporary designs

Other Notable Mills

Scabal (Belgium)

• Known for: Luxury fabrics with unique blends
• Specialty: Incorporating precious materials like gold or diamond particles

Dugdale Bros (England)

• Known for: Traditional British fabrics at accessible price points
• Specialty: Classic tweeds and hardy business suitings

Considerations When Choosing a Brand

Reputation: Well-established mills often guarantee a certain level of quality

Style: Some mills are known for traditional patterns, others for modern designs

Performance: Certain brands specialize in high-tech, performance-oriented fabrics

Price: Fabric brands range from accessible to ultra-luxurious

Personal preference: You might find you prefer the feel or look of certain brands

Remember, while the brand is important, it's not the only factor to consider. The specific fabric's properties, how it suits your needs, and how it feels to you are equally crucial. Our tailors can guide you through the options from various brands to find the perfect fabric for your custom garment.

If you're new to custom tailoring, choosing the right fabric can seem overwhelming. Here are some recommendations to help you get started:

Start with Versatility

Choose a medium-weight wool (around 280 g/m²) for your first suit

• This weight works well for year-round wear in most climates

Opt for a solid color or subtle pattern

• Navy blue or charcoal grey are excellent choices for maximum versatility

Select a Super 100s-120s wool

• This range offers a good balance of quality, comfort, and durability

Consider Your Lifestyle

Think about where you'll wear the suit most often

• Office environment? Opt for a classic business style
• Creative field? You might choose a fabric with more texture or pattern

Factor in your local climate

• Warmer climates might benefit from lighter weight fabrics
• Colder regions may require heavier fabrics or wool blends

Start with a Conservative Budget

Aim for the mid-range of your budget for your first suit

• This allows room to explore higher-end options as you become more familiar with your preferences

Remember that a well-fitted suit in a mid-range fabric often looks better than an ill-fitted suit in luxury fabric

Focus on Fit and Construction

Prioritize getting the right fit over choosing the most expensive fabric

• A perfectly fitted suit in a good fabric will always look better than a poorly fitted suit in an expensive fabric

Ask for Samples

Request fabric samples to touch and see in person

• Fabrics can look and feel different in real life compared to online images

View samples in different lighting conditions

• Natural daylight and indoor lighting can affect how colors appear

Seek Expert Advice

Don't hesitate to ask us for recommendations

• We can guide you based on your needs, preferences, and budget

Be open about your concerns and priorities

This helps the tailor suggest the most suitable options for you

Consider Maintenance

For your first suit, choose a fabric that's relatively easy to care for

• This might mean avoiding very high Super numbers or delicate blends

Remember, your first custom suit is a learning experience. It's okay to be conservative in your choices. As you become more comfortable with the process, you can explore more unique fabrics and styles.

At Westwood Hart, we offer several additional services to enhance your custom tailoring experience and help you make the best fabric choices for your garments:

Zoom Call for Fabric Consultation

Schedule a one-on-one video call with our expert tailors

Discuss your needs, preferences, and lifestyle in detail

Get personalized fabric recommendations based on your specific requirements

View fabric samples in real-time as the tailor explains their characteristics

Ask questions and get immediate answers about different fabric options

Fabric Samples for Touch and Feel

Request a curated selection of fabric samples to be sent to your home or office

Experience the texture, weight, and drape of fabrics firsthand

Compare different options side by side in your own environment

Take time to consider how each fabric looks under various lighting conditions

Consult with family or friends before making your final decision

Seasonal Fabric Updates

Sign up for our newsletter to receive updates on new seasonal fabrics

Be the first to know about limited edition or exclusive fabric collections

Get expert tips on incorporating seasonal fabrics into your wardrobe

Fabric Care Consultation

Receive detailed care instructions for your chosen fabric

Learn about proper cleaning and maintenance to extend the life of your garment

Get advice on storage and travel care for your custom suits

Style and Fabric Pairing Advice

Consult with our style experts on how to pair your new garment with existing pieces in your wardrobe

Get recommendations on shirt, tie, and accessory pairings to complement your fabric choice

Fabric Education Workshops

Attend our periodic workshops to deepen your understanding of fabrics

Learn about different weaves, treatments, and performance characteristics

Understand how to choose the best fabrics for various occasions and climates

These additional services are designed to give you confidence in your fabric selection and ensure that you're fully satisfied with your custom tailoring experience. Don't hesitate to take advantage of these offerings to make the most informed decision possible.

Choosing the right fabric for your custom-tailored garment is a crucial step in creating a suit or jacket that not only looks great but also feels comfortable and serves your specific needs. Here are the key takeaways from this guide:

Consider the occasion: Different fabrics suit different settings, from formal business environments to casual outings.

Think about climate: Your local weather and the seasons should influence your fabric choice for optimal comfort.

Understand fabric properties: Familiarize yourself with concepts like weight, Super numbers, and different fiber types to make informed decisions.

Balance quality and budget: Invest in the best quality you can afford, but remember that mid-range fabrics can often offer excellent value.

Start with versatility: If you're new to custom tailoring, begin with versatile, year-round fabrics in classic colors.

Explore gradually: As you become more comfortable, venture into seasonal fabrics, unique blends, and more distinctive patterns.

Take advantage of expert advice: Don't hesitate to consult with our experienced tailors for personalized recommendations.

Use additional services: Make use of our fabric consultation calls, sample service, and in-person visits to make the best choice.

Consider long-term value: A well-chosen fabric can result in a garment that looks great and lasts for years.

Trust your preferences: While advice is valuable, your personal comfort and style should guide your final decision.

Remember, the perfect fabric is one that not only looks and feels great but also aligns with your lifestyle, comfort preferences, and personal style. At Westwood Hart, we're committed to helping you navigate these choices to create garments that you'll love wearing.

Whether you're commissioning your first custom suit or adding to an extensive wardrobe, we're here to ensure that your fabric choice contributes to a garment that exceeds your expectations. Don't hesitate to reach out to our team for any questions or to start your custom tailoring journey.

Thank you for considering Westwood Hart for your custom tailoring needs. We look forward to helping you create the perfect garment for you.