Mastering the Art of Men's Tailored Suits and Tuxedos

The Intricacies of Men's Tailored Suits and Tuxedos

In the realm of men's tailored clothing, discerning the quality of suits and tuxedos can be an intricate affair. With the plethora of options available, knowing how to identify the best suits for men—whether for a wedding or any other formal occasion—becomes crucial. We believe there are particular hallmarks that serve as indicators of a well-made, custom suit, and understanding these details will enhance your shopping experience immensely.

The Importance of Corner Treatment in Custom Suits

The first aspect to pay attention to is the treatment of corners. In a custom-made suit, great care is taken to round off the corners of the jacket and lapels. This prevents premature wear, a sign that you are looking at a suit of high quality. While some manufacturers might round the tips of the lapels, a truly custom suit will also feature rounded corners at the bottom of the jacket and the ends of the sleeves. Although rounded corners alone aren't a definitive sign of quality, their presence generally suggests that the suit is well-crafted in other respects as well.

Pick Stitching: The Subtle Art in Tailored Suits for Men

Another subtle but telling feature is pick stitching. This delicate stitching along the edges of a suit was traditionally done by hand. In the past, the mere presence of pick stitching was a strong indicator of a quality, tailor-made suit. However, innovations have brought machinery into the picture, capable of imitating the look of hand-stitching. So, how does one discern authentic hand-stitching from machine-stitched facsimiles? It's all in the details. Upon closer inspection, the rear side of the stitching can reveal its true nature. Authentic, hand-stitched pick stitching will often be subtler and less uniform compared to its machine-made counterpart.

The Role of Hand-Stitching in Westwood Hart's Custom Suits

For those who value the art of hand-stitching, Westwood Hart offers custom tailored suits featuring hand pick stitching, meticulously completed by skilled artisans. This level of craftsmanship ensures that each custom suit from Westwood Hart meets the highest standards of tailored suits for men.

Cultural Nuances in Stitching Styles: English, German, and Italian Suits

The stitching styles also tend to differ based on cultural nuances; English and German suits usually feature subtle, understated pick stitching. Italian suits, on the other hand, may flaunt more conspicuous stitching. Areas to look for pick stitching include the lapel and collar, extending down the front quarters of the jacket. Sometimes, you may even find it along the back seams and the sleeves. When you come across such detailed stitching, rest assured, you're likely holding a quality, custom-tailored suit.

Inside a Custom Suit: The Craftsmanship Behind Linings and Patterns

Custom suits will often feature an impressive amount of hand-stitching, particularly on the inside. This is a craft seen less frequently in mass-produced garments and speaks volumes about a suit's quality.

For those discerning customers who prioritize craftsmanship, Westwood Hart offers custom tailored suits where the linings, armhole, collar felt, and lapel padding are all meticulously sewn by hand. Additionally, patterns are crafted from scratch by skilled artisans, ensuring the best tailored suits for men. For repeat orders, Westwood Hart keeps your pattern on file to guarantee a consistent, custom fit every time.

The Significance of Hand-Sewn Linings in Tailored Suits

So, let's say you're examining a suit from the inside out. What should you look for? Start with the lining. In high-quality tailored suits, the lining is usually sewn by hand, a detail that contributes to both the suit's comfort and its lifespan. You can typically verify this by checking the sleeves and the armhole; both should exhibit stitches that are noticeably set in by hand. The unique charm of hand-stitching lies in its slight irregularities—features that lend a suit both character and flexibility. As a result, a hand-stitched suit doesn't just look splendid; it also adapts to your movements, elevating both your comfort and your appearance.

Lapel Details: The Unspoken Indicator of a Custom Suit's Quality

In a similar vein, when assessing the lapel of a custom suit, flip it over and observe the pick stitching on the back. This is especially crucial when evaluating custom-tailored suits with an interlined canvas, as this stitching contributes to the coveted lapel roll. A tailored garment should never possess a lapel that's flat and ironed; such a feature is anathema to what a well-tailored suit represents. Sometimes, the stitching might be glaringly visible, while at other times it might be subtly incorporated, either because the thread is fine, the colour blends seamlessly, or the stitching itself is minimalistic. Regardless, this is an element that should not be ignored.

The Canvas Conundrum: Full, Half, or None?

Moreover, the canvas inside a suit jacket deserves particular attention. High-quality suits generally feature either a full canvas or none at all, but the one thing they shouldn't contain is glue. We believe this is non-negotiable, and even a half-canvas construction is a compromise in quality. After all, a truly custom suit is sewn, not glued.

Quality suits shun the use of adhesives, opting for a full canvas or, in some rare instances, no canvas at all. It is crucial to note that glue has no place in the realm of the best suits for men. A half-canvas suit may be easier on the pocket, but it significantly compromises on quality and longevity.

For those who seek uncompromising quality, Westwood Hart offers fully canvassed custom suits, each meticulously sewn by hand. This ensures that our custom suits meet the highest standards of quality and longevity, making them some of the best suits for men available online.

Under the Collar: A Peek into Craftsmanship

Then, examine underneath the collar. This might sound like an odd tip, but it's an effective way to discern the craftsmanship that's gone into your suit. In quality suits and tuxedos, the collar should be hand-sewn, a fact you can verify by looking for irregular stitches. These are often fine, sometimes even featuring contrasting colours, but what they have in common is their flexibility. Machine-sewn collars, on the other hand, are noticeably rigid and often utilise a standard, triangular stitch. They simply don't offer the same level of finesse or comfort as their hand-sewn counterparts.

Consider the lining - If it's sewn by hand, it manifests in slight irregularities that add charm and flexibility. This hand stitching makes a tailored suit move with you, thereby enhancing not just comfort but also aesthetics.

Understanding the Lapel Roll

Yet, another point of note is the lapel. If you've ever wondered what sets authentic tailored suits apart, look no further than the lapel roll formed by interlined canvas and pick stitching. On the other end of the spectrum, cheaper tailored suits, often flat-ironed, lack this dimension. A discerning eye may catch these pick stitches; sometimes they're subtle, but their presence is an unmistakable mark of quality. The difference between machine-stitched and hand-stitched suits goes further than just the lapel. The collar is another area where a quality suit stands out. Hand-sewn collars feature irregular, often finer stitches, lending them flexibility and elegance. In contrast, machine-stitched collars typically have a rigid, uniform stitch, clearly highlighting the difference between custom suits and their off-the-rack counterparts.

Custom Suits Pattern Alignment

Moving on to pattern matching, this is particularly important for suits with distinguishable patterns, like stripes or windowpane checks. In the finest tailored suits for men, you'll notice meticulous pattern alignment across various elements— from pocket flaps to trouser sides. Such attention to detail might appear trivial but speaks volumes about the quality of the suit.

Westwood Hart takes pattern matching to the next level, aligning all patterns by hand for a harmonious look. While we generally recommend traditional alignments, we also offer the option to align the lapel and shoulders upon customer request, although it's worth noting that this can sometimes jeopardize the fit.

Custom Suits Hand Sewn Buttonhole

Buttonholes, while often overlooked, are not to be dismissed. The best custom suits boast handmade buttonholes, executed with a finesse that borders on art. While some quality machine-made options exist, there's a certain irregularity in hand-stitched buttonholes that convey a level of craftsmanship machine manufacturing simply can't replicate.

Fabric Reserve: The Unsung Hero of Tailored Suits

One pivotal yet overlooked aspect of this is fabric reserve. In high-quality custom suits, you'll often find a fabric reserve at the back seam of the trousers. This extra inch or two of material offers both a mark of superior craftsmanship and practical room for future alterations. In contrast, cheaper suits often skimp on this feature, leaving no room for adjustments. The fabric reserve essentially acts as a safety net, allowing for a greater range of movement and tailoring options down the line.

The presence or absence of fabric reserve is particularly telling in suits that are either half-lined or completely unlined. Here, you can hold the fabric against a light source to check for this extra material. However, an easier method, especially for those without a keen eye, is simply to inspect the trousers. Turning them inside out should reveal whether the suit has been parsimoniously cut or whether the tailor has generously provided for future tailoring needs.

Corozo, Horn, Bone and Mother of Pearl Buttons

Buttons - A suit adorned with quality buttons—be it horn, Corozo, or even mother-of-pearl—immediately sets itself apart from its mass-produced counterparts. A high-quality custom suit, uses unique materials like Corozo, often seen in Italian suits, or even precious metals such as gold.
It's all about individuality. In contrast to cheap plastic buttons that look uniform and are prone to breaking, horn or Corozo buttons offer a rugged durability. Each button showcases its unique texture and colour, much like the men who wear them, exuding an air of authenticity and character. Thus, a cursory glance at the buttons can often give you a quick but insightful clue into the suit's overall quality.

Material Composition: The Backbone of High-End Custom Suits

Consider the material composition, for example. High-end custom suits generally feature superior textile grades, marked by higher Super numbers. While you might find elements of cashmere elegantly woven into the fabric, the lining will often be made from luxuriously soft bemberg or silk. Cotton could also make an appearance, but the material composition will never include low-end elements like polyester or nylon. Even viscose should raise an eyebrow as it's typically a hallmark of lower quality suits.
For those in search of the epitome of quality, Westwood Hart procures the highest quality sustainable wool fabrics from renowned mills such as Vitale Barberis, Reda, Loro Piana, and Holland & Sherry. Our private collection includes an array of Super numbers ranging from 120s to 180s, as well as luxurious silk and wool blends and cashmere wool blends, making them some of the best custom suits available.

The Waistband Story: Hollywood Trousers in the Best Suits for Men

Transitioning to the trousers, a well-constructed waistband can also be revealing. In the world of best suits for men, Hollywood trousers are often a key indicator of quality. These trousers lack a separate, detached waistband and are designed to be held up solely by suspender buttons or belt loops. The absence of an extraneous waistband isn't a feature commonly found in off-the-rack or cheap tailored suits. When you see this level of detail, rest assured, you're looking at an expensive suit that's likely been tailored to perfection.

The Inside of the Jacket: A Sanctuary of Individuality and Functionality

Moving inward, let's explore the sanctuary that is the inside of the jacket. The presence of monograms or secret pockets is often a clandestine nod to the wearer’s individuality.

Westwood Hart: The Epitome of Sartorial Excellence in Custom Suits

Customizations like these are not mere whimsical additions; they signify that the suit in question is a cut above those lacking such personalized features.
In line with this ethos of individuality and quality, Westwood Hart offers a high degree of customizable options and meticulous attention to detail in every custom suit we craft. This ensures that each garment is not just a product but a labor of love, embodying the best in tailored suits for men.
The bottom line? When you find a suit imbued with these nuances, chances are it's not just an expensive piece but a labor of love from the tailor, offering an ideal blend of functionality and individuality.

Navigating the world of men's tailored clothing can be complex, but understanding the hallmarks of a well-made suit can make all the difference. From the meticulous treatment of corners and the subtlety of pick stitching to the quality of the canvas and the craftsmanship in the collar, this comprehensive guide lays bare the intricate details that signify a top-quality, custom suit.
For those seeking the epitome of sartorial excellence, consider Westwood Hart to craft the best custom suit for you. We offer a perfect fit guarantee, along with quick delivery, ensuring that you are not just well-dressed but also well-served.

Elevating Functionality to Art: The Nuances that Make a Suit Exceptional

Further nuances such as fabric reserve, button material, and even distinctive customizable features elevate a suit from merely functional to a work of art. Whether you're suiting up for a wedding or another formal event, this guide serves as an indispensable tool for distinguishing the truly exceptional from the merely adequate.