Frequently Asked Questions — Westwood Hart Custom Suits & Tailoring
About Westwood Hart
What is Westwood Hart and how long have you been tailoring?
Westwood Hart is a vertically integrated bespoke tailoring house founded in the late 1960s by Master Tailor Peter Lau. Peter trained as a pattern-making apprentice before becoming a master shifu and remains active on the workshop floor today. The company is led by his son Vincent Lau as CEO. We operate our own tailor shop with over 40 skilled artisans and master tailors, and we ship hand-sewn, full-canvas custom suits, sport coats, and dress shirts to clients worldwide.
What makes Westwood Hart different from other custom suit companies?
Every garment we produce is built on a full-canvas construction — the traditional bespoke method in which a floating canvas layer is hand-stitched to the fabric rather than fused with glue. This gives the jacket its structure, allows it to mould to the wearer's body over time, and produces a drape that fused or half-canvas construction simply cannot match. We use Shanghai-style tailoring techniques passed down through our master tailors, source fabrics directly from the world's leading mills including Loro Piana, Scabal, Dormeuil, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Holland & Sherry, Zegna, Guabello, E.Thomas, Filarte, Reda, Lanifico Cerruti, and Marzoni, and back every garment with a perfect fit guarantee.
Do I need to visit a showroom or can I order entirely online?
Everything is designed to be done online. You submit your measurements using one of three methods — a self-measurement guide, replicating an existing garment that fits you well, or submitting photos for our team to assess. Virtual consultations are available. We do not have a public showroom. If you need a physical fitting appointment before ordering, Westwood Hart may not be the right fit for you.
Fit & Construction
Why does a bespoke or made-to-measure suit fit better than one bought off the rack?
Because it starts from your body, not from a size chart. Off-the-peg suits are cut from a standard block — a template built around average proportions that do not reflect any real person in particular. If your chest is a 40 but your waist is a 34, you are already fighting the pattern before the suit is even on your back.
A made-to-measure suit begins with your actual measurements — chest, waist, hips, shoulders, back length, sleeve length, neck. From those numbers, a pattern is drafted specifically for your proportions. Darts, seam allowances, and shaping are placed where your body actually needs them. The result is a jacket whose shoulder seam sits exactly where your shoulder ends, whose waist suppression follows your actual waist, and whose sleeve falls at exactly the right point on your wrist. None of that happens by accident. It is the direct result of the pattern being cut for you rather than for a composite average.
What is the difference between a fused jacket and a canvased jacket — and does it matter?
It matters more than most people realise. A fused jacket is built by gluing the fabric and lining together at the chest and shoulder. It holds its shape out of the box, which is why most high-street suits are made this way — it is fast and cheap. The problem is that fusing deteriorates. After a few dry cleans, the glue begins to bubble and unstick, leaving that tell-tale bumpy, blistered texture across the chest. You will have seen it on other people, even if you did not know what you were looking at.
A canvased jacket is built differently. The canvas — traditionally made from horsehair — is hand-stitched into the chest and shoulder, not glued. This means it moves with your body rather than fighting against it, and over time it moulds to the shape of the wearer. Every Westwood Hart jacket is full-canvas construction. There is no shortcut taken, and no glue involved. The garment will outlast anything fused by a considerable margin.
How does Westwood Hart ensure the suit fits me without a physical fitting?
The same way bespoke tailors have always done it — through precise measurements and an iterative process. You submit your measurements using one of three methods: following our self-measurement guide, providing the measurements of an existing garment that already fits you well, or sending photos for our team to assess directly. Virtual consultations are available for anyone who wants to talk it through first.
From those measurements, your pattern is drafted to your proportions — not adjusted from a standard block, but built around your actual chest, waist, shoulders, and sleeve length. If the first garment is not exactly right, our 30-day perfect fit guarantee covers free remakes. We do not consider the job done until the fit is done.
What suit fit should I choose — classic, tailored, or slim?
Tailored fit suits most men best, and that is not a fence-sitting answer. The shoulder sits neatly on the bone, the waist is slightly suppressed, there is still an inch or two of room between the closed jacket and your stomach, and the trousers fall with clean straight lines. It is a modern cut that works for professionals of all ages without being so tight that it restricts movement or dates badly.
Classic fit is the looser, older silhouette — shoulder pads that extend beyond the natural shoulder, no waist suppression, pleated trousers. It has its advocates and its occasions. But most men who choose it do so out of habit rather than intent.
Slim fit is the opposite extreme. The armholes sit high, the waist is heavily tapered, and the jacket hugs the body closely. Think Daniel Craig in Bond. It looks extraordinary on an athletic frame. On anyone carrying extra weight around the middle, it can make the proportions look worse, not better. Be honest with yourself. When you order with Westwood Hart, the fit is not chosen from a dropdown — it is built into the pattern from your actual measurements.
Style & Design
Should I choose a single-breasted or double-breasted suit?
Single-breasted is the more versatile choice and the right starting point for most men. A two-button single-breasted jacket is the most universally worn suit style — it works in an office, at a wedding, at a business lunch, and on a night out. One rule most men forget: never button the bottom button. Only the top fastens.
Double-breasted is more formal and more of a statement. It almost always carries a peak lapel, which is correct — the peak lapel is the smarter of the two lapel shapes and suits the bolder silhouette of a DB jacket naturally. If you are a taller gentleman, a double-breasted suit will look exceptional on you. If you are on the shorter side, be careful — the higher button stance and wider lapel placement can work against your proportions if they are not set correctly from the outset. At Westwood Hart, your measurements and frame are considered before anything is cut.
What is the difference between a notch lapel and a peak lapel?
The notch lapel is the standard. It is the most commonly worn lapel shape in business environments, works well on a two-button single-breasted jacket, and is appropriate for almost every occasion. Understated, versatile, correct.
The peak lapel points upward and outward at the collar, giving the jacket a sharper, more assertive silhouette. It is the traditional choice for double-breasted jackets and black tie formalwear. On a single-breasted jacket, a peak lapel is a deliberate statement — it tells the room you know what you are doing. Both are available on every Westwood Hart jacket, cut to whatever width suits your frame.
What is a three-piece suit and when should I wear one?
A three-piece suit adds a waistcoat to the jacket and trouser combination. It is a more formal look, a more considered one, and a more impressive one when it is done well. A five-button single-breasted waistcoat with a pointed bottom is the most common configuration and works in most settings where a suit is appropriate.
The waistcoat also solves a practical problem: it covers the strip of shirt that sometimes appears between the jacket opening and the trouser waistband, creating a cleaner, more continuous line. If you have a wedding, an important pitch, or any occasion where you want to walk in meaning business, consider the three-piece. It is the kind of thing people notice and remember.
Should my suit trousers have a flat front or pleats?
Flat front for almost everyone. A flat-fronted trouser falls closer to the body, creates cleaner lines, and suits the modern silhouette most men are looking for. It works at every age and photographs well.
Pleated trousers create extra room in the thigh and have their place — for a fuller figure, or for a deliberate vintage look. But if you are ordering a suit for work or a wedding and you are not sure, go flat front. You are less likely to regret it.
What lining should I choose for my suit?
Lining does two things — it adds warmth and gives the jacket a clean interior finish. A fully lined jacket covers the entire inside and is the right choice for year-round and winter garments. A half-lined jacket — sometimes called butterfly lining, for the shape it creates at the shoulders — is significantly more breathable and better suited to summer suits and lighter fabrics.
The lining material is usually cupro, viscose, or satin. Silk is the most luxurious but also the most fragile, which is why most serious tailors now use high-quality alternatives that are stronger and longer-lasting. At Westwood Hart you choose from 88 fancy lining options, or you can commission a fully bespoke lining using your own image or design. It is one of those details nobody else in the room will see — except you, every time you put the jacket on.
Ordering & Design Options
What customisation options are available?
Extensive. You choose from over 1,000 fabric options across more than a dozen premium mill partners, select from 64 types of suit buttons — including horn, bone, corozo, and mother-of-pearl — and choose from 88 varieties of printed fancy linings or commission a bespoke lining using your own image or design. Structural choices include lapel width, shoulder construction, vent style, pocket style, single or double-breasted, two-piece or three-piece, and additional trouser options.
I just placed an order but want to change some details. What do I do?
Email our customer support team immediately with the changes you need. Orders enter production quickly and changes must be made before your fabric is cut. The sooner you contact us, the better.
I would like to order a gift for someone else. What should I do?
Change the address details in your profile to the recipient's address before placing the order. This is especially important for international recipients, as currency and VAT settings are address-dependent. Remember to update your address back after the parcel has been dispatched.
Can I choose design options not shown on the website?
Yes. Email us with your specific requests and we will confirm whether we can accommodate them and at what price. We are flexible on construction details, design features, and custom requirements beyond the standard configurator.
Can I order in a fabric not shown on the website?
Yes. Contact us with a description and photo of the fabric you have in mind. We will attempt to source it, or you can purchase the fabric yourself and arrange shipment to our tailor. Contact us first for a price quote.
Fabrics
Where do your fabrics come from?
We source directly from leading fabric mills including Loro Piana, Scabal, Dormeuil, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Holland & Sherry, Zegna, Guabello, E.Thomas, Filarte, Reda, Lanifico Cerruti, and Marzoni. Our mill relationships span over a decade in several cases. Fabrics originate from England, Italy, and other leading textile regions. All suppliers have signed our Code of Conduct. We offer over 1,000 fabric choices across fine wools, cashmeres, silks, and cotton blends.
Can I order fabric swatches before committing to a suit?
Yes. We offer a fabric swatch service so you can see and feel the cloth before ordering. Visit our swatch page to select the fabrics you want sent to your door.
Production & Delivery
Where are your garments made?
We produce all custom-made garments in a tailor shop owned and operated by us in China. All personnel is employed directly by us, giving us full oversight of working conditions, salaries, and quality at every stage of production.
How long does production take?
Production time is 14 business days from payment confirmation, followed by 3 to 5 business days for shipping to your door.
Can I track my order?
Yes. Log into your Westwood Hart profile to check order status. While in production the status shows as In production. Once dispatched it changes to In transit and a FedEx tracking number is provided.
What countries do you ship to?
We ship to the United States, Germany, France, Andorra, Austria, Australia, Belgium, Bulgaria, Canada, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Kuwait, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Oman, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Romania, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Thailand, and the United Arab Emirates. For countries not listed, contact us — additional charges, taxes, or duties may apply.
Fit Guarantee & Returns
What is your fit guarantee?
We offer a 30-day perfect fit guarantee. If you are not satisfied with the fit of your garment for any reason, we cover free returns and free remakes. Our goal is that every client receives a garment they are genuinely happy to wear.
How do I take measurements if I have never ordered a custom suit before?
We provide a detailed self-measurement guide on our website. Alternatively, you can replicate the fit of an existing garment by providing its measurements, or submit photos of yourself wearing well-fitting clothing for our team to assess. Virtual consultations are available if you would like guidance before ordering.
Garment Care
How should I care for my Westwood Hart suit?
Dry clean sparingly — a few times per year at most. Excessive dry cleaning can degrade the canvas and fabric over time. Between cleans, spot clean or brush with a fabric brush. Steaming is safe for high-stress points such as behind the knee and at the elbows. Always hang garments on a supportive wooden hanger that maintains the shoulder shape.