The Complete Guide to Pocket Squares: History, Styles, and How to Fold Them

Key Takeaways:

1. Pocket squares have a rich history, evolving from functional handkerchiefs to stylish accessories.

2. Materials like silk, cotton, and linen each offer unique benefits for different occasions and folds.

3. Mastering folds like the presidential, puff, and crown can add sophistication to any outfit.

4. Proper storage and thoughtful matching ensure your pocket squares remain a versatile part of your wardrobe.

5. Advanced folds and creative styles allow you to express your personality and stand out.

The History of Pocket Squares: From Handkerchiefs to Men's Fashion Staple

Pocket squares might seem like a small detail in men's fashion, but they carry a rich history and a surprising amount of significance. Have you ever wondered why men wear pocket squares or how they became a symbol of elegance and style? The story begins in 1775, when Marie Antoinette decreed that handkerchiefs should be square, giving birth to the pocket square as we know it today. But this accessory’s journey didn’t stop there. From ancient Egypt, where they were used to ward off "bad air," to the Renaissance, where they became a status symbol, pocket squares have evolved into a timeless men's fashion staple.

Today, pocket squares are more than just a decorative touch—they’re a statement. Whether you’re dressing for a formal event or adding a touch of sophistication to a casual outfit, a well-chosen pocket square can elevate your look. But with so many folds, materials, and styles to choose from, where do you start? How do you avoid common mistakes, like mismatching colors or overcomplicating the fold? And why should you even bother with this seemingly small detail?

In this article, we’ll explore the history of pocket squares, their role in modern men's fashion, and practical tips for choosing, folding, and styling them. By the end, you’ll understand why this tiny piece of fabric can make such a big impact on your overall style.

Why Do Men Wear Pocket Squares? The Evolution of a Style Icon

Pocket squares have come a long way from their origins as functional handkerchiefs. But why do men still wear them today? The answer lies in their ability to communicate style, attention to detail, and a sense of individuality. In the past, pocket squares were used to signal social status—only the wealthy could afford finely embroidered or perfumed handkerchiefs. Today, they serve a similar purpose, but in a more subtle and modern way.

When you wear a pocket square, you’re making a statement. It shows that you care about the finer details of your outfit, even if you’re not wearing a tie. For many men, a pocket square is the perfect way to add a pop of color or texture to an otherwise understated look. It’s also a versatile accessory that can adapt to different occasions, from formal events to casual gatherings.

But pocket squares aren’t just about aesthetics. They also carry a sense of history and tradition. By wearing one, you’re connecting to a long line of well-dressed men who understood the power of small details. Whether you prefer a classic white cotton square or a bold silk pattern, your choice of pocket square says something about your personality and your approach to style.

The Role of Pocket Squares in Modern Men's Fashion

In today’s world, where casual attire often dominates, pocket squares stand out as a symbol of intentional style. They bridge the gap between formal and casual, allowing men to express themselves without overdoing it. But what exactly is their role in modern men's fashion?

First, pocket squares add a touch of sophistication to any outfit. Whether you’re wearing a tailored suit or a sport coat, a well-chosen pocket square can elevate your look instantly. It’s a small detail that catches the eye and shows you’ve put thought into your appearance.

Second, they offer versatility. Unlike ties, which can feel restrictive or overly formal, pocket squares are adaptable. You can go for a classic fold for a business meeting or a playful puff fold for a casual dinner. The choice of material—whether silk, cotton, or linen—also allows you to tailor your look to the season or occasion.

Finally, pocket squares are a way to stand out without being flashy. In a sea of plain suits and neutral tones, a pocket square can be your signature touch. It’s a subtle way to show personality, whether you prefer bold patterns, muted tones, or something in between.

Materials Matter: What Are Pocket Squares Made Of?

When it comes to pocket squares, the material you choose can make all the difference. Not only does it affect the look and feel of the square, but it also determines how well it holds a fold and complements your outfit. So, what are pocket squares made of, and how do you choose the right one?

The most common material for pocket squares is silk. Known for its luxurious sheen and smooth texture, silk is perfect for adding a touch of elegance to formal attire. It’s ideal for puff folds or more intricate styles, as it drapes beautifully and catches the light in a way that draws attention.

For a more casual or structured look, cotton and linen are excellent choices. These materials are stiffer than silk, making them better suited for crisp folds like the presidential or one-point fold. Cotton pocket squares are also more affordable and easier to care for, making them a practical option for everyday wear.

Polyester and rayon are less common but can be found in budget-friendly options. While they may lack the natural texture of silk or cotton, they can still add a splash of color or pattern to your outfit. However, if you’re aiming for timeless quality, natural materials are the way to go.

Choosing the right material depends on the occasion, your personal style, and the type of fold you prefer. A silk square might be perfect for a wedding, while cotton or linen works well for a business meeting or casual outing.

How to Fold a Pocket Square: A Guide to Classic and Creative Folds

Folding a pocket square might seem intimidating at first, but it’s easier than you think. With a few simple techniques, you can master folds that range from classic to creative, each suited to different occasions and styles. Here’s a breakdown of the most popular folds and how to achieve them.

The Presidential Fold

This is the simplest and most formal fold. Start by laying the pocket square flat, then fold it in half horizontally. Next, fold it in half again vertically. Finally, fold the bottom third up, creating a neat rectangle. This fold works best with cotton or linen squares and is perfect for business settings or formal events.

The One-Point Fold

For a slightly more dynamic look, try the one-point fold. Lay the square flat and fold it diagonally to form a triangle. Then, fold the left and right corners inward, creating a single point at the top. This fold adds a touch of sophistication without being overly formal.

The Puff Fold

If you’re looking for something more casual and playful, the puff fold is a great option. Simply gather the center of the square and pinch it, allowing the edges to drape naturally. Tuck the gathered end into your pocket, leaving the puffed fabric visible. This fold works well with silk squares and adds a splash of color to your outfit.

Advanced Folds: Crown and Winged Puff

For those who want to make a statement, advanced folds like the crown or winged puff are worth trying. These require a bit more practice but can add a unique flair to your look. Tutorials and step-by-step guides can help you master these intricate styles.

No matter which fold you choose, the key is to practice and find what works best for you. Start with simpler folds and gradually experiment with more creative styles as you gain confidence.

The Presidential Fold: A Simple and Timeless Pocket Square Style

The presidential fold is the go-to choice for men who want a clean, polished look. It’s simple, elegant, and works well in almost any formal or professional setting. But what makes this fold so timeless, and how do you get it right?

Why Choose the Presidential Fold?

The presidential fold is all about understated sophistication. It creates a neat, rectangular shape that sits perfectly in your jacket’s breast pocket, showing just a hint of fabric above the edge. This fold is ideal for business meetings, weddings, or any occasion where you want to look sharp without drawing too much attention to your accessories.

How to Achieve the Perfect Presidential Fold

1. Start with a Flat Square: Lay your pocket square flat on a clean surface, ensuring there are no wrinkles.

2. Fold Horizontally: Fold the square in half horizontally, bringing the bottom edge up to meet the top edge.

3. Fold Vertically: Next, fold the square in half vertically, bringing the left edge over to the right edge.

4. Create the Rectangle: Fold the bottom third of the square upward, leaving about half an inch of fabric visible above the pocket when placed in your jacket.

Tips for Success

• Use a cotton or linen pocket square for this fold, as these materials hold their shape better than silk.

• Avoid overstuffing the pocket—let the square sit naturally for a clean, tailored look.

• Pair this fold with a solid-colored square for a classic appearance, or experiment with subtle patterns for a modern twist.

The presidential fold is a testament to the idea that simplicity often makes the strongest statement. It’s a reliable choice that never goes out of style.

The Puff Fold: Adding a Splash of Color to Your Jacket

If you’re looking for a pocket square fold that’s both easy and eye-catching, the puff fold is your best bet. It’s perfect for adding a touch of personality to your outfit, whether you’re dressing up for a casual event or just want to break away from traditional folds.

Why Choose the Puff Fold?

The puff fold is all about effortless style. Unlike more structured folds, it has a relaxed, carefree appearance that works well with bold colors and patterns. It’s a great way to introduce a pop of color or texture to your jacket without overwhelming your overall look.

How to Create the Perfect Puff Fold

1. Lay the Square Flat: Start by placing your pocket square on a flat surface, ensuring it’s free of wrinkles.

2. Gather the Center: Pinch the center of the square with your fingers, allowing the edges to drape naturally.

3. Form the Puff: Gently twist the gathered fabric to create a loose, rounded shape.

4. Tuck into the Pocket: Place the twisted end into your jacket’s breast pocket, leaving the puffed fabric visible above the edge.

Tips for Success

• Silk pocket squares work best for the puff fold, as they drape beautifully and catch the light.

• Don’t overthink it—the charm of the puff fold lies in its casual, slightly imperfect appearance.

• Experiment with different colors and patterns to find what complements your outfit best.

The puff fold is a versatile and fun way to incorporate pocket squares into your wardrobe. It’s a small detail that can make a big impact, showing off your creativity and confidence.

Advanced Pocket Square Folds: Crown, Winged Puff, and More

Once you’ve mastered the basics, it’s time to explore advanced pocket square folds. These styles are perfect for making a bold statement or adding a unique touch to your outfit. While they require a bit more practice, the results are well worth the effort.

The Crown Fold

The crown fold is a showstopper, featuring multiple peaks that resemble a crown. Here’s how to achieve it:

1. Lay the pocket square flat and fold it diagonally to form a triangle.

2. Fold the left and right corners inward, creating a smaller triangle with a pointed tip.

3. Fold the bottom edge upward, leaving about an inch of fabric at the top.

4. Tuck the folded end into your pocket, allowing the peaks to fan out elegantly.

This fold works best with silk squares and is ideal for formal events or occasions where you want to stand out.

The Winged Puff Fold

The winged puff fold combines the casual appeal of the puff fold with a structured, winged shape. Here’s how to create it:

1. Lay the square flat and fold it diagonally to form a triangle.

2. Fold the left and right corners inward, creating a smaller triangle with a pointed tip.

3. Gather the center of the triangle and pinch it, allowing the edges to drape naturally.

4. Tuck the gathered end into your pocket, letting the wings flare out on either side.

This fold is perfect for adding a touch of drama to your look, especially when paired with patterned or textured squares.

Other Creative Folds

• The Three-Point Fold: Similar to the one-point fold but with three peaks instead of one. It’s a great way to add dimension to your pocket square.

• The Scallop Fold: This fold creates a wavy, scalloped edge that’s perfect for adding a playful touch to your outfit.

Tips for Success

• Practice makes perfect. Don’t be discouraged if your first few attempts don’t look flawless.

• Use a stiffer material like cotton or linen for folds that require more structure.

• Pair advanced folds with simpler outfits to let the pocket square take center stage.

Advanced folds are a great way to showcase your creativity and attention to detail. They’re perfect for men who want to push the boundaries of traditional style.

Practical Tips for Storing and Matching Pocket Squares

Once you’ve built a collection of pocket squares, the next step is learning how to store and match them effectively. Proper storage ensures your squares stay in great condition, while thoughtful pairing can elevate your outfit. Here are some practical tips to help you get the most out of your pocket squares.

Storing Your Pocket Squares

1. Use a Dedicated Organizer: Invest in a pocket square organizer or drawer divider to keep your squares neatly folded and separated. This prevents wrinkles and makes it easier to find the one you need.

2. Hang Them in Jackets: If you frequently wear jackets, consider storing a pocket square in each one. This ensures you always have a matching square on hand and saves time when getting dressed.

3. Avoid Moisture and Sunlight: Store your pocket squares in a cool, dry place to prevent damage from humidity or fading from sunlight.

Matching Pocket Squares to Your Outfit

1. Complement, Don’t Match: Your pocket square doesn’t need to perfectly match your tie or shirt. Instead, choose a square that complements your outfit by picking up on secondary colors or patterns.

2. Consider the Occasion: For formal events, stick to classic white or neutral tones. For casual outings, feel free to experiment with bold colors and patterns.

3. Balance Patterns: If your shirt or suit has a bold pattern, opt for a solid-colored pocket square. Conversely, if your outfit is simple, a patterned square can add visual interest.

4. Think About Texture: Mixing textures can add depth to your look. For example, pair a silk pocket square with a wool suit or a linen square with a cotton blazer.

Quick Tips for Beginners

• Start with a few versatile squares in neutral colors like white, navy, or gray.

• Practice folding and matching your squares at home to build confidence.

• Don’t be afraid to experiment—style is personal, and there’s no one-size-fits-all approach.

By storing your pocket squares properly and learning how to match them effectively, you’ll ensure they remain a stylish and functional part of your wardrobe for years to come.

Westwood Hart: Simplifying Style with Built-In Pocket Squares

At Westwood Hart, we believe that great style should be effortless. That’s why every custom-tailored suit and sport coat we create comes with a built-in pocket square that matches the lining of your jacket. This thoughtful detail eliminates the hassle of choosing and folding a separate pocket square, making it easier than ever to add a polished touch to your look.

Our made-to-measure suits are designed with your convenience in mind. Simply puff out the lining from your top chest pocket, and you’re ready to go. Whether you’re dressing for a formal event or a casual outing, this built-in feature ensures you always look sharp without the extra effort.

With Westwood Hart, you can focus on what matters most—expressing your personal style. Explore our online configurator to design a suit that’s uniquely yours, and experience the ease of built-in elegance.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the purpose of a pocket square?

A pocket square adds a touch of elegance and personality to your outfit. While it originated as a functional handkerchief, today it’s primarily a fashion accessory that complements your suit or blazer.

Should my pocket square match my tie?

No, your pocket square doesn’t need to match your tie exactly. Instead, it should complement your outfit by picking up on secondary colors or patterns. Matching too closely can look overly coordinated.

What’s the easiest pocket square fold for beginners?

The presidential fold is the simplest and most beginner-friendly. It creates a clean, rectangular shape that works well in formal settings.

Can I wear a pocket square without a tie?

Absolutely! A pocket square is a great way to add style to your outfit when you’re not wearing a tie. It shows attention to detail and can make a casual look more polished.

What material is best for pocket squares?

Silk is ideal for formal occasions and creative folds, while cotton and linen are better for structured folds and casual settings. Choose based on the occasion and the look you’re going for.

How do I store my pocket squares to keep them in good condition?

Use a dedicated organizer or drawer divider to keep your pocket squares neatly folded and separated. Avoid storing them in damp or sunny areas to prevent damage.

Can I wear a patterned pocket square with a patterned shirt or suit?

Yes, but balance is key. If your shirt or suit has a bold pattern, opt for a solid-colored pocket square. If your outfit is simple, a patterned square can add visual interest.

How much of the pocket square should show above the pocket?

For most folds, about half an inch to an inch of the pocket square should be visible above the pocket. This ensures a polished look without overwhelming the outfit.

Are pocket squares only for formal occasions?

No, pocket squares can be worn in both formal and casual settings. The key is to choose the right fold, material, and color for the occasion.

Where can I find high-quality pocket squares?

Many menswear brands offer pocket squares, but for a truly personalized touch, consider custom options from tailors like Westwood Hart, who specialize in high-quality accessories.