Key Takeaways:
- Slim-fit clothing creates cleaner lines and better proportions
- Proper jacket length should end at the hips for best visual balance
- Monochromatic outfits create an unbroken visual line
- Strategic tailoring transforms off-the-rack clothes
- V-necks create better proportions than crew necks
- Vertical stripes add visual height when used correctly
- Proper footwear can subtly add height without looking obvious
Short Men's Style Guide
Finding clothes that fit well when you're shorter than average can be frustrating. Most clothing brands design for taller body types, making it difficult to find properly proportioned garments off the rack. Does this sound familiar? Many men under 5'8" face these exact challenges every time they shop for clothes.
Common issues include sleeves that are too long, trousers that bunch at the ankles, and jackets that overwhelm your frame. These fit problems can make you look shorter and affect your confidence in professional and social situations. But there's good news - with the right clothing choices and styling techniques, you can build a wardrobe that fits properly and flatters your build.
This guide covers practical solutions to the most common clothing challenges shorter men face. You'll learn specific techniques about fit, proportion, and styling that work for men of shorter stature. From choosing the right jacket length to understanding how different necklines affect your overall appearance, these proven methods will help you dress well for your height.
Slim Fit Clothing for Short Men
Wearing clothes that fit properly forms the foundation of any well-dressed shorter man's wardrobe. Baggy or oversized clothing creates excess fabric that shortens your appearance and adds unnecessary bulk to your frame. The solution? Opt for slim-fit clothing that follows your body's natural lines.
When we talk about slim fit, we don't mean skin-tight clothing that restricts movement. Instead, focus on garments that skim your body with just enough room for comfort. Your shirts should fit close to your shoulders without drooping, while the body of the shirt should follow your torso's shape without pulling or billowing. For trousers, look for styles that taper gradually from hip to ankle, avoiding excess fabric that can make your legs appear shorter.
In casual wear, this principle applies equally. T-shirts should fit snugly around your shoulders and chest, tapering slightly towards your waist. Avoid the common mistake of sizing up for comfort - this only adds bulk and reduces your perceived height. Even in athletic wear, slim-fit joggers and fitted sweatshirts maintain cleaner lines than their baggy counterparts.
The key to success lies in consistent proportions. Your clothes should work together to create a streamlined silhouette from shoulders to shoes. When trying on clothes, pay particular attention to shoulder seams, sleeve length, and where shirts end at your hips. These small details make a significant difference in how put-together you appear.
Monochromatic Outfits for Short Men
Wearing a single colour from head to toe creates an unbroken visual line that makes you appear taller. This technique works because it prevents your body from being chopped into separate sections, which can make you look shorter. The trick is to work with slight variations in shade rather than matching everything exactly.
Dark colours work particularly well for this approach. A navy suit worn with a lighter blue shirt and darker blue tie creates depth while maintaining the lengthening effect. For casual wear, try dark jeans with a black t-shirt and a charcoal jacket. The subtle differences in tone add interest without breaking up your silhouette.
But monochrome doesn't mean boring. You can create visual interest through texture instead of colour. A black leather jacket paired with black jeans and a black knit jumper offers plenty of contrast through different materials. This adds sophistication to your outfit while maintaining the height-enhancing benefits of a single-colour look.
Browns and greys also work brilliantly for this technique. Try combining different shades of tan or beige for a softer look that's particularly effective in summer. The key is to keep the colours in the same family, avoiding stark contrasts that could visually cut your height in half.
Jacket Length and Proportions for Short Men
Jacket length can make or break an outfit for shorter men. The most common mistake is wearing jackets that hang too low, cutting your legs off visually and making you appear shorter. A properly fitted jacket should end around your hip line, allowing enough of your legs to show and creating better overall balance.
For suit jackets and blazers, the bottom hem should align with your knuckles when your arms are relaxed at your sides. This creates the perfect proportion between your upper and lower body. Watch out for jackets that cover your bottom completely - these will always make your legs look shorter than they are.
When choosing casual jackets like bombers or denim styles, stick to waist-length or slightly below. These shorter cuts help maintain your body's natural proportions while keeping your outfit practical. The shoulders of any jacket should end exactly where your shoulders end - oversized shoulders create a drooping effect that reduces height.
The same rules apply to winter coats. Rather than long overcoats that can overwhelm your frame, opt for car coats or peacoats that end at mid-hip. These styles provide warmth without sacrificing your proportions. Pay attention to the buttoning point as well - it should sit at your natural waist to create the most flattering line.
Vertical Stripes for Short Men
Vertical stripes work effectively in making you appear taller by drawing the eye up and down rather than across your body. The key is choosing the right type of stripes. Thin pinstripes on suits and shirts work better than bold, wide stripes, which can look overwhelming on a shorter frame.
For formal wear, a pinstriped suit offers a sophisticated way to add height. The stripes should be subtle - think fine chalk stripes rather than bold banker stripes. Dark suits with light stripes create the most flattering effect. When wearing striped shirts, stick to classic business stripes rather than bold statement patterns.
In casual clothing, vertical stripes need careful handling. A striped button-down shirt works well untucked with plain trousers, but avoid pairing striped tops with striped bottoms. This creates too much visual noise and defeats the lengthening purpose. For an easy weekend look, try a navy and white striped shirt with solid-coloured chinos.
The spacing between stripes matters significantly. Stripes should be narrow and evenly spaced - this creates a more natural lengthening effect than wide or irregular stripes. When choosing striped patterns, remember that darker backgrounds with lighter stripes typically work better than the reverse.
Tailoring for Short Men
Getting your clothes tailored isn't a luxury - it's essential for shorter men. Off-the-rack clothes are designed for an average height of around 5'10", which means most garments need adjustments to fit properly on a shorter frame. Strategic tailoring can transform an ordinary outfit into one that fits perfectly.
The most important areas for tailoring are trouser length and jacket sleeves. Trousers should break once at your shoes without bunching - excess fabric around your ankles visually shortens your legs. For dress shirts, the sleeves should end exactly at your wrist bone, with the body taken in to remove excess fabric around your torso.
Suit jackets typically need several adjustments. Beyond sleeve length, a tailor can adjust the button stance to hit at your natural waist, shorten the jacket length to complement your proportions, and bring in the sides to create a cleaner line. These alterations cost less than buying a new suit and make a significant difference in how put-together you look.
Even casual clothes benefit from tailoring. A $25 alteration to taper jeans or shorten a shirt can transform how your everyday clothes fit. When buying new clothes, factor tailoring costs into your budget - it's better to own fewer, well-fitted garments than many that fit poorly.
Footwear for Short Men
Your choice of shoes plays a crucial role in your overall appearance. Shoes that add a bit of height without looking obvious make a practical difference. Look for shoes with a slight heel or thicker sole - they can add 1-2 inches of height naturally.
Boots offer a practical solution for adding height. Chelsea boots or dress boots with a moderate heel work well with both casual and formal outfits. The key is choosing styles with clean lines - bulky boots can make your feet look disproportionately large. Dark colours help your shoes blend seamlessly with your trousers, maintaining a continuous line.
For formal occasions, Oxford shoes with a slight heel provide elegance and height. Avoid very pointed toes or extremely rounded shapes, as these can throw off your proportions. A medium toe shape balances your foot size while keeping the look classic.
Trainers need careful selection. Chunky soles might seem tempting for adding height, but they often look heavy and draw attention to your feet. Instead, choose trainers with a modest platform and a simple design. White or dark-coloured trainers in a minimalist style work best, especially when matched with your trouser colour.
V-Neck vs Crew Neck for Short Men
The neckline of your shirts affects how tall you appear more than you might think. V-necks create a small but important vertical line that draws the eye upward, making your neck look longer and your torso taller. This subtle detail adds to your perceived height without looking like you're trying too hard.
For t-shirts, a moderate V-neck works better than deep V-necks or crew necks. The V should end about mid-chest - any lower looks dated, while higher cuts lose the lengthening effect. When wearing jumpers or sweaters, V-necks again have the advantage, particularly under jackets or blazers.
Button-up shirts follow similar principles. Leaving your top button undone creates a small V-shape that mirrors this effect. For formal occasions, choose shirts with slightly spread collars rather than point collars - they create a subtle V-shape that complements your neck length.
During colder months, V-neck jumpers layered over shirts provide both style and the height-enhancing benefits. The V-shape naturally draws attention upward while creating clean lines for layering. Just ensure the V-neck doesn't sit too low when layering - it should hit at mid-chest for the most flattering look.
Custom Tailoring Solutions for Short Men
Finding the perfect fit shouldn't be a challenge. At Westwood Hart, we understand the unique needs of shorter men, which is why our custom tailoring service focuses on creating garments that fit your exact measurements. Our suits and sport coats are crafted to your specific proportions, ensuring proper sleeve length, jacket length, and overall balance.
We often work with clients who've struggled with off-the-rack sizing, helping them discover how transformative properly fitted clothing can be. Our online configurator lets you design suits that work specifically for your height, taking into account all the principles we've discussed - from proper jacket proportions to trouser length. Each garment is cut to create clean lines and balanced proportions that complement your frame.
Frequently Asked Questions About Short Men's Style
What is the ideal jacket length for a short man?
A jacket should end at your hip line, typically where your knuckles fall when your arms are at your sides. This length creates the best proportions and makes your legs appear longer.
How much should I expect to spend on tailoring?
Basic alterations like hemming trousers cost $25, while more complex changes to jackets range from $50-85. Budgeting about $80-150 for a full suit alteration is typical.
Can short men wear double-breasted suits?
Yes, but they need precise tailoring. The jacket must be shorter than standard double-breasted suits, and the button stance should be higher to create better proportions.
Should short men avoid horizontal stripes completely?
Not completely, but use them sparingly and in small patterns. Thin horizontal stripes on accessories like ties can work well when the rest of the outfit creates vertical lines.
What's the best trouser break for short men?
A slight break or no break works best. Trousers should just touch the top of your shoes without bunching fabric, creating a clean line from hip to ankle.
How can I make my legs look longer?
Wear trousers at your natural waist, not your hips. Choose shoes in the same colour as your trousers, and ensure your jackets don't extend past your hip line.
Are there any patterns short men should avoid?
Large patterns or oversized checks can overwhelm a shorter frame. Stick to small-scale patterns and subtle designs that don't break up your vertical line.
What's the best way to wear layers without looking shorter?
Keep layers thin and fitted. Each layer should be close-fitting, and avoid bulky materials that add visual weight. Maintain consistent colours between layers.