The Ultimate Guide to Wearing Suits: Master Menswear Etiquette and Style

Key Takeaways:

1. Quality is paramount: Invest in well-crafted suits.
2. Embrace colour: Move beyond navy and grey to express personality through your suit choices.
3. Footwear matters: Choose appropriate shoes that complement your suit and the occasion.
4. Ties complete the look: Don't forsake this classic accessory that adds character to your ensemble.
5. Accessorise thoughtfully: Less is more when it comes to suit accessories.
6. Focus on fit: Avoid the skinny suit trap and prioritise comfort and flattering silhouettes.
7. Master conservative dressing: Know when and how to dress appropriately for formal occasions.
8. Details make the difference: Pay attention to grooming, pressing, and shoe shine for a polished look.
9. Invest in bespoke: Consider custom-tailored options like Westwood Hart for the perfect fit.
10. Confidence is key: A well-fitted suit boosts self-assurance and commands respect.

The Evolution of Suit Wearing

The suit has long been a cornerstone of men's fashion, evolving from a symbol of corporate conformity to a versatile garment that can express personal style. For many gents, the journey into suit wearing begins with a modest purchase, often from a high street shop.

Remember your first suit? Perhaps it was a polyester blend that seemed smart at the time but now makes you cringe. Don't worry, you're not alone. Many of us started our sartorial journey with an off-the-peg number that was more function than fashion.

But why settle for mediocre when you can elevate your style game? Are you tired of blending into the sea of navy and grey at the office? Do you want to make a statement without saying a word? A well-chosen suit can do just that.

As we delve into the world of men's suiting, we'll explore how to select quality garments, embrace colour, and accessorise with flair. We'll tackle common pitfalls like ill-fitting 'skinny' suits and inappropriate footwear choices. By the end of this guide, you'll be equipped to navigate the sartorial landscape with confidence, whether you're dressing for a job interview, a wedding, or a night on the town.

Quality is King: Choosing the Right Suit for Your Wardrobe

When it comes to suits, quality truly reigns supreme. A well-crafted suit can elevate your appearance, boost your confidence, and stand the test of time. But how do you ensure you're investing in a quality garment without breaking the bank?

First and foremost, let's address the elephant in the room - cheap suits. While it might be tempting to opt for a budget-friendly option, especially if you're just starting to build your suit collection, it's crucial to understand that a cheap suit can cheapen your overall appearance. Even with expert tailoring, low-quality materials will always betray their true nature.

Polyester blends, often found in cheaper suits, are essentially plastic fibres. They may look passable initially, but over time, they tend to develop a sheen that screams "bargain bin". These materials also don't breathe well, leaving you uncomfortable and potentially sweaty - hardly the impression you want to make.

 

Embracing Colour: Moving Beyond Navy and Grey

Walk down any city street, and you'll likely see a sea of navy and grey suits. While these classic colours have their place, they've become so ubiquitous that they've lost their impact. Isn't it time we injected some personality back into men's suiting?

The dominance of navy and grey has contributed to the decline in suit wearing. After all, who wants to look like a corporate drone every day? But here's the thing: suits don't have to be drab. In fact, they can be a powerful tool for self-expression.

Let's talk about brown suits. Once a staple in men's wardrobes, brown fell out of favour in the 1990s. But this rich, versatile colour is making a comeback, and for good reason. Brown exudes warmth and honesty, making it perfect for both business and social settings. From light tan to deep chocolate, there's a shade of brown to suit every skin tone and occasion.

Fancy something a bit bolder? Consider green. Often overlooked in men's suiting, green offers a refreshing alternative to the usual suspects. A khaki suit, for instance, can be both corporate-appropriate and stylish. Add a subtle check pattern, and you've got a garment that's interesting without being overpowering.

But don't stop there. True blue, burgundy, or even a subtle purple can all work wonderfully as suit colours. The key is to choose a shade that complements your skin tone and fits the occasion.

Worried about standing out too much? Start small. Perhaps a navy suit with a subtle check or a grey suit with a hint of colour in the weave. As your confidence grows, you can experiment with bolder hues.

The Importance of Proper Footwear with Suits

Let's talk about the foundation of your suited look - your shoes. You might have the finest tailored suit in your wardrobe, but if your footwear doesn't match up, you're selling yourself short.

In recent years, there's been a trend towards pairing suits with more casual footwear. White trainers, colourful 'dress' sneakers, and even - dare I say it - sandals or Crocs have made appearances with suits. While this might seem like a bold fashion statement, it often misses the mark.

Why? Simply put, suits and casual shoes are at opposite ends of the formality spectrum. Pairing them creates a visual disconnect that can throw off your entire look. It's like wearing a top hat with board shorts - the elements just don't gel.

So, what should you be wearing? For a classic, timeless look, you can't go wrong with a pair of well-polished Oxfords. Black captoe Oxfords are the gold standard for formal occasions, while brown or burgundy can work well for less formal settings or with lighter coloured suits.

If you're after something a bit less formal, consider brogues or monk straps. These offer a bit more visual interest while still maintaining a smart appearance. And for those cooler months, a sleek pair of Chelsea boots can look fantastic with a suit.

Now, let's address another footwear faux pas - wearing extremely light-coloured shoes with dark suits. This high-contrast look can visually 'cut you off' at the ankles, disrupting the smooth flow of your outfit. Instead, aim for shoes that complement your suit colour. With darker suits, opt for darker shoes - think black, dark brown, or oxblood.

Ties: The Finishing Touch for a Complete Suit Ensemble

In recent years, we've seen a trend of men forsaking the tie, opting instead for an open-collar look with their suits. While this might feel like a small act of rebellion against corporate conformity, it's worth considering what we lose when we ditch the tie.

A suit, by its very design, is meant to be worn with a tie. Notice that V-shaped opening at the top of your jacket? It's purposefully cut to frame your tie and shirt. Without a tie, this space can look oddly empty, like a picture frame without a picture.

But a tie is more than just a piece of fabric to fill a gap. It's a powerful tool for self-expression. Think about it - in a world of navy and grey suits, your tie is often your best opportunity to inject some personality into your outfit. Whether you opt for a bold pattern, a vibrant colour, or a subtle texture, your tie can say a lot about who you are.

Ties also serve a practical purpose in your outfit. They create a visual line down the centre of your body, which can have a slimming effect. They draw the eye upward, emphasising your face and helping you appear taller. And let's not forget - a well-tied tie simply looks smart and put-together.

Now, you might be thinking, "But aren't ties uncomfortable?" If your tie feels like it's choking you, chances are you're wearing your collar too tight. A properly fitted shirt collar should allow you to comfortably slip two fingers between the collar and your neck. With the right fit, you'll hardly notice you're wearing a tie at all.

When choosing a tie, consider the occasion and the rest of your outfit. For formal events, you can't go wrong with a classic silk tie in a solid colour or subtle pattern. For less formal settings, you might experiment with different materials like wool or knitted silk, or bolder patterns and colours.

Don't forget about tie width. As a general rule, your tie should be roughly the same width as your jacket lapels. This creates a harmonious, balanced look.

And here's a pro tip: learn a few different tie knots. The four-in-hand is a classic for good reason, but mastering the Windsor or half-Windsor can give you more options to suit different collar styles and occasions.

Accessorising with Restraint: Less is More

When it comes to suit accessories, it's easy to get carried away. You might think that piling on every dapper accoutrement in your wardrobe will make you look more stylish. However, the truth is quite the opposite. In the world of men's style, simplicity often reigns supreme.

Let's paint a picture. Imagine a chap wearing a suit with a tie, pocket square bursting from the breast pocket, a lapel pin, a boutonnière, a watch chain, a tie bar, and perhaps even a brooch or two. While each of these items can be stylish on their own, together they create a visual cacophony. It's as if the wearer couldn't decide which accessory to choose, so he opted for all of them.

This approach to accessorising often backfires. Instead of looking stylish, you risk appearing as though you're trying too hard. It's the sartorial equivalent of using every spice in your kitchen to cook a single dish - overwhelming and ultimately unsatisfying.

So, what's the solution? Embrace the art of subtle sophistication. Choose your accessories thoughtfully and sparingly. A good rule of thumb is to limit yourself to two or three accessories at most.

For instance, a well-chosen tie and a complementary pocket square can be all you need to elevate your suit from good to great. If you're wearing a tie clip, perhaps skip the pocket square. Sporting a lapel pin? Maybe leave the boutonnière for another day.

Remember, the goal of accessorising is to enhance your overall look, not to distract from it. Your accessories should complement your suit, not compete with it for attention.

Quality matters more than quantity. It's far better to have a few well-made, versatile accessories than a drawer full of cheap, tacky ones. Invest in pieces that you truly love and that reflect your personal style.

Also, consider the occasion when choosing your accessories. A formal event might call for more restrained choices, while a casual gathering could allow for a bit more flair.

Finding the Perfect Fit: Avoiding the Skinny Suit Trap

In recent years, the fashion world has been gripped by a trend that's left many a gent struggling to breathe comfortably in his own suit - the skinny fit. While this style might look smashing on runway models, for the average bloke, it's often more of a miss than a hit.

Let's face facts: according to the Office for National Statistics, about 64% of men in the UK are classified as either overweight or obese. Even among those in the 'normal' weight category, only a small fraction would genuinely suit a skinny fit. So why are so many of us squeezing ourselves into suits that seem designed for whippets?

The allure of the skinny suit is understandable. It promises a sleek, modern silhouette that seems to scream 'fashion-forward'. But here's the rub - a suit that's too tight isn't just uncomfortable, it's unflattering.

Picture this: a jacket so snug that the buttons threaten to become projectiles if you take a deep breath. Trousers so form-fitting that sitting down becomes an act of bravery. Not only does this look uncomfortable, but it also disrupts the clean lines that a well-fitted suit should create.

So, what's a style-conscious gent to do? The key is to focus on fit rather than trend. A properly fitted suit should allow for comfort and movement while still providing a smart, tailored appearance.

Here are a few tips for finding the right fit:

1. Jacket shoulders should end where your shoulders end - no overhang, no pulling.
2. You should be able to easily button your jacket without it pulling across your chest or stomach.
3. Trouser waistbands should sit comfortably at your natural waist, not squeezing your midsection.
4. You should be able to pinch about an inch of fabric on either side of your thigh when standing.
5. Jacket sleeves should end at your wrist bone, showing about half an inch of shirt cuff.

Dressing Conservatively for Formal Occasions

When it comes to certain events - weddings, job interviews, court appearances, or other formal occasions - there's a time and place for sartorial experimentation, and this isn't it. These situations call for a more conservative approach to suit wearing. But don't mistake conservative for boring - there's an art to looking impeccably dressed while adhering to traditional standards.

The key here is to show respect through your attire. You're dressing not just for yourself, but for the occasion and the people involved. This is when you reach for your navy or charcoal suit, pair it with a crisp white shirt, and select a tie in a subtle, classic pattern or solid colour. Think burgundy, navy, or dark green for the tie - colours that convey seriousness and reliability.

For footwear, this is the moment for your black cap-toe Oxfords to shine - literally. Patent leather can be a bit much for most occasions, but a well-polished pair of black leather Oxfords is always appropriate.

Now, you might be thinking, "Won't I just blend in with everyone else?" Here's where the details make all the difference. While you're conforming to the dress code, you can still stand out by paying attention to the finer points of your outfit.

Ensure your suit is impeccably pressed. A sharp crease down the front of your trousers and wrinkle-free jacket speak volumes about your attention to detail. Your shirt should be crisp and well-fitted - no billowing excess fabric or gaping buttons.

Your shoes should be so well-polished they could double as mirrors. A high-quality shoe shine isn't just about aesthetics - it shows respect for the occasion and demonstrates your meticulousness.

Pay attention to your grooming as well. A fresh haircut, neatly trimmed nails, and subtle (or no) cologne complete the picture of a well-put-together gentleman.

Elevate Your Style with Westwood Hart: Bespoke Suits for the Modern Gentleman