Key Takeaways:
- Suit pockets are sewn shut primarily to protect garments during shipping and preserve the jacket's intended silhouette
- Pockets evolved from separate pouches in medieval times to sewn-in features that became status symbols by the 1600s
- Two types of fake pockets exist: purely decorative pockets with no function, and sewn shut functional pockets that can be opened
- Manufacturers close pockets to prevent damage in transport and discourage wearers from stuffing them, which ruins the jacket's drape
- Designers keep decorative pockets for visual balance and to honor tailoring heritage, even when they're non-functional
- Interior pockets and breast pockets remain the most practical options for storing items without affecting your jacket's appearance
- Always remove tack stitching from jacket vents, sleeve buttons, and brand labels, but consider leaving hip pockets closed
- Opening sewn shut pockets is possible, but fashion experts recommend keeping them closed to maintain the garment's clean lines
Why Are Suit Pockets Sewn Shut: What You Need to Know
Why are suit pockets sewn shut when you walk into a store and try on a new jacket? You slip your arms through the sleeves, check yourself in the mirror, and reach for the hip pocket only to find it completely sealed with white thread. What's going on here? Why would manufacturers go through the effort of constructing what appears to be a perfectly good pocket, only to sew it closed? And stranger still, why do some jackets feature pockets that look functional from the outside but have no opening at all?
This puzzling feature appears across menswear, from suit jacket pockets explained to overcoats, trousers, and even casual wear. The practice seems counterintuitive at first glance. After all, aren't pockets supposed to hold things? To understand why sewn shut pockets exist and whether you should open them, you need to know the history behind this design choice, how pockets evolved from pure function to fashion statement, and what modern designers are trying to achieve when they seal up perfectly usable storage space.
Have you ever wondered if those sealed pockets serve any real purpose? Should you cut them open, or is there a reason they're meant to stay closed? And what about those other stitches you find on a new jacket—the ones on the vents and sleeves? This guide will answer all these questions and help you understand the balance between aesthetics and practicality in tailored menswear.
The History of Pockets in Men's Clothing
Pockets are a relatively recent invention in the grand timeline of human clothing. During medieval times, everyone relied on pouches attached to belts to carry their belongings. These separate bags hung from the waist and had nothing to do with the actual garments people wore for warmth and protection. The clothing itself served one purpose, while storage was handled entirely separately through these external pouches.
The first recorded instances of sewn-in pockets began appearing in France during the 1600s. This innovation quickly became a marker of status among gentlemen who wanted instant access to their personal items. Having pockets built directly into your clothing meant you could carry your snuff box, important notes, and the newly fashionable pocket watch without fumbling with separate bags. This convenience separated the upper classes from common folk who still relied on basic pouches.
By the 18th century, the history of pockets took a dramatic turn as their use exploded, particularly in military circles. Military leaders recognized pockets as a functional invention that could standardize equipment storage across their forces. As the industrial revolution gained momentum, military uniforms were manufactured en masse, and these standardized patterns all included pockets embedded in trousers, coats, and waistcoats. Even though most civilian clothing was still made by hand at this time, the popular patterns being shared among tailors all featured built-in pockets as an essential element of proper menswear construction.
Pockets as Status Symbols in Victorian Menswear
The Victorian era revealed something fascinating about pockets and social hierarchy. Depending on a man's position in society, he would carry specific items that signaled where he belonged in the social order. The pockets on his jacket and clothing were initially made specifically for these status items, creating a visual language that everyone understood at a glance.
The breast pocket we still see on jackets today served as a utilitarian feature that could accommodate various items depending on the occasion. Other pockets were far more specialized. Coin pockets held exact change for quick transactions. Ticket pockets kept rail passes and theater tickets readily accessible. Watch pockets were precisely sized to protect expensive timepieces that only wealthy gentlemen could afford. Each pocket type told observers something about the wearer's lifestyle and social standing.
Pocket placement followed strict rules based on function and accessibility. Higher pockets were smaller and more secure, designed for valuable items you wanted to keep close. Internal pockets provided additional security for important documents or extra currency. Lower hip pockets were larger and more accessible, capable of holding anything from correspondence to ammunition for those in military service. The way clothing was designed to fit on a man's body specifically accommodated these suit jacket pockets explained as functional elements rather than decorative features. Every pocket had a purpose, and gentlemen expected to use them regularly throughout their day.
The Rise of Fake Pockets on Jackets in Modern Fashion
The big shift that transformed menswear occurred between the 1920s and 1950s when manufacturing became streamlined and mass production took hold. Clothing started to move away from pure utility and toward design aesthetics. Function took a backseat to form as the focus shifted toward how garments looked rather than how much they could carry.
As more men moved into cities and the suit became the standard uniform for professional life, the priorities changed dramatically. Silhouette mattered more than storage capacity. Drape became more important than deep pockets. Proportion and the way clothing hung on the body took precedence over practical considerations. Designers wanted their creations to maintain clean lines and balanced shapes, and bulky functional pockets threatened these aesthetic goals.
This period marked the rise of what we now call fake pockets. Manufacturers realized they could achieve the traditional look of tailored menswear without committing to fully functional storage solutions. The visual expectation of pockets remained important for maintaining the classic appearance, but the actual utility became secondary. This shift reflected broader changes in urban life where men carried fewer physical items and valued appearance over the rugged practicality their grandfathers required. The streamlined approach to blazer pockets and suit construction became the new standard as fashion consciousness overtook pure function in menswear design.
Two Types of Non-Functional Pockets Explained
When we talk about fake pockets, we're actually discussing two distinct categories that serve different purposes. Understanding the difference helps you know what to expect when you purchase a new jacket and whether you have any options for making those pockets functional.
The first type is the purely decorative pocket that was never intended to work. From the outside, it looks like there could be a pocket opening, but closer inspection reveals that the manufacturer never finished the construction. There's no actual opening, no pocket bag inside, and no way this feature could ever hold anything. It's completely ornamental, designed solely to maintain the visual appearance of traditional tailoring without any functional component whatsoever.
The second type is the sewn shut pocket, which generates more debate among menswear enthusiasts. These pockets are actually constructed with full functionality built in, including the interior pocket bag and proper finishing. However, manufacturers close them with temporary stitching before the garment leaves the factory. Some people argue these shouldn't be called fake pockets on jackets because they can technically be opened and used. The reality is that most designers don't expect or want customers to actually use these pockets. If you cut the stitching and start filling them with items, the jacket won't maintain the clean silhouette the designer intended. The pockets are there structurally, but their intended purpose is aesthetic rather than practical.
Sewn Shut Pockets Meaning: Why Manufacturers Close Them Today
The first and most practical reason manufacturers sew pockets shut is to prevent damage during shipping and handling. Anyone who works in logistics knows how easily garments can snag or catch on equipment, packaging materials, or other items during transport. Open pockets create opportunities for fabric to get pulled, stretched, or torn as jackets move through warehouses and delivery trucks. By closing these openings with temporary stitching, manufacturers significantly reduce the likelihood of damage before the garment ever reaches the store or customer.
This protective stitching also keeps the jacket more neatly packaged as a product. Without loose pocket openings, the garment maintains its shape better when folded, hung, or compressed during shipping. The jacket arrives looking crisp and new rather than rumpled or misshapen from the journey. This seemingly small detail makes a significant difference in presentation when customers first examine the garment.
The second reason runs deeper into design philosophy and reveals the true sewn shut pockets meaning behind this practice. Designers close pockets to discourage you from using them, even though they're technically functional. They understand that filling those hip pockets will completely change the jacket's silhouette and the way it drapes on your body. A wallet, phone, or keys creates unsightly bulges that destroy the clean lines and balanced proportions the designer worked to achieve. The sewn stitching serves as a gentle reminder that these pockets exist for visual tradition rather than daily storage. By keeping them closed, you preserve the garment's intended shape and help it last longer while maintaining the symmetric, polished look that makes tailored menswear so attractive. Modern suits and sport jackets aren't the rugged hunting coats men wore in the 1890s—they're refined garments meant for presentations, formal dinners, and occasions where appearance matters most.
Why Designers Still Create Decorative Pockets
This question naturally follows once you understand that many pockets serve no practical function. If we're not meant to use them, why include them at all? Why not eliminate pockets entirely and save on manufacturing costs, materials, and construction time? The answer reveals something interesting about visual expectations and design tradition in menswear.
Some jackets on the market have eliminated pockets completely, and when you look at these garments, something feels off. They appear plain and unfinished, lacking the visual markers we've come to expect from tailored clothing. Most designers agree that pockets provide essential visual balance to a suit jacket, even when those pockets will never hold anything. The horizontal lines created by pocket flaps or welts break up the expanse of fabric and create points of interest that guide the eye across the garment.
There's also a psychological component at work. We expect to see pockets on a suit jacket because that's what tailored menswear has looked like for generations. Removing them entirely violates these expectations and makes the garment feel incomplete, regardless of whether we plan to use those pockets. The presence of decorative pockets acknowledges this visual heritage while allowing designers to maintain control over the garment's silhouette and drape.
Finally, pockets connect modern suits to their tailoring roots. These garments evolved from highly functional clothing worn by men who needed to carry numerous items throughout their day. Even though contemporary suits serve different purposes, maintaining pocket details honors that heritage and preserves the visual language of classic menswear. The pockets remind us that we're wearing a garment with centuries of refinement behind it, even if the modern version prioritizes aesthetics over utility.
Which Blazer Pockets Are Actually Functional?
While hip pockets on suit jackets are best left closed to preserve the garment's silhouette, certain pockets on your jacket genuinely serve practical purposes without compromising the overall look. Knowing which pockets you can actually use helps you get functionality from your tailored clothing without sacrificing style.
Interior pockets represent the most practical storage option on any suit jacket. These pockets sit inside the jacket, typically on the left and right chest areas behind the front panels. Because they're hidden from view, you can store items like business cards, folded documents, or cash without creating any visible bulges or disrupting the jacket's exterior appearance. The weight distributes evenly across your torso rather than pulling down on one side, and nothing shows from the outside to ruin your clean lines.
The breast pocket serves a specific and highly visible purpose in menswear. This pocket sits on the left chest of the jacket and works perfectly for displaying a pocket square, which adds a finishing touch to your formal appearance. While you could technically store small items here, the breast pocket functions best as a decorative feature that allows you to incorporate color and pattern into your outfit. Many well-dressed men consider this pocket essential for achieving a polished, complete look.
When it comes to coat pockets sewn shut versus trouser pockets, the situation differs. Many manufacturers now eliminate back pockets on trousers entirely, and this actually improves the garment's appearance, especially since most men no longer carry bulky wallets. Front trouser pockets remain functional and useful for everyday items. Consider switching to a slim wallet or a front pocket wallet design, which reduces bulk, creates cleaner lines, and even decreases the risk of pickpocketing. These modern wallet styles work far better with contemporary trouser cuts than the thick, overstuffed wallets that create unsightly bumps and wear patterns.
Fashion vs Function in Menswear: The Pocket Debate
This ongoing debate in tailored clothing centers on a fundamental question: should menswear prioritize how it looks or how well it serves practical needs? The pocket issue crystallizes this tension perfectly, forcing designers and wearers to choose between aesthetic ideals and everyday utility.
Many men want their clothing to be completely functional. They believe that if a garment has pockets, those pockets should work and be available for use. This perspective makes logical sense from a consumer standpoint—why pay for features you can't actually utilize? These practical-minded individuals see sewn shut pockets as a form of deception or unnecessary limitation placed on perfectly good garments.
On the other side, designers and style experts argue that using jacket pockets fundamentally changes how the garment performs. When you understand the construction and intended purpose of modern tailored clothing, the reasoning becomes clear. Most men aren't wearing sport jackets and blazers for the same reasons their ancestors did in the 1890s. Nobody's putting on a tailored jacket to go hunting or to carry ammunition and correspondence throughout the day. Contemporary tailored clothing serves primarily aesthetic and social purposes—fancy dinners, important presentations, weddings, theater performances, and professional settings where appearance matters tremendously.
The reality of fashion vs function in menswear is that stuffing items into your hip pockets destroys the clean silhouette and balanced proportions that make tailored clothing attractive in the first place. A bulging wallet creates an asymmetric appearance. A phone pulls the fabric down on one side. Keys create lumpy protrusions that catch the eye for all the wrong reasons. These practical items undermine the very purpose of wearing a well-tailored garment. The designers who sew pockets shut aren't trying to frustrate customers—they're trying to help you maintain the garment's intended appearance and extend its lifespan by preventing the stretching and sagging that comes from regular pocket use.
Tack Stitching on New Jackets: What You Should Remove
Beyond the pocket question, new jackets come with other temporary stitching that serves protective purposes during shipping but must be removed before wearing. Understanding what to cut and what to leave alone prevents fashion mistakes that instantly mark you as inexperienced with tailored clothing.
The vents on the back of your jacket will have stitching holding them closed when you purchase the garment new. These X-shaped threads keep the vents flat during transport and prevent them from getting caught or torn. You absolutely need to remove this stitching before wearing the jacket. The vents exist to allow freedom of movement and proper drape when you sit down or move your arms. Leaving them sewn creates an awkward, restrictive fit that defeats the purpose of having vents in the first place.
Sleeve buttons often have tack stitching as well, and you should remove these threads carefully with a seam ripper or small scissors. Some jackets arrive with the brand's label stitched onto the sleeve, which you definitely want to remove. Men sometimes wear new jackets with these labels still attached, thinking they add prestige or show the garment is new. This looks amateurish rather than fashionable. The label served its purpose in the store—it has no place on the sleeve once you've made the purchase.
The key difference between tack stitching on new jackets and sewn shut pockets comes down to function. Tack stitching on vents, buttons, and labels exists solely to protect the garment during shipping and display. Removing this stitching allows the jacket to fit and move on your body the way the designer intended. Pocket stitching, however, serves a dual purpose—protection during transport and preservation of the garment's silhouette during wear. This is why you must remove vent and button stitching, but you should carefully consider whether opening pocket stitching serves your best interests. The temporary nature of tack stitching means it's designed to be removed, unlike pocket construction that's meant to maintain the jacket's shape throughout its lifetime.
Custom Suit Jacket Pockets at Westwood Hart
Now that you understand the reasoning behind sewn shut pockets and the balance between form and function, you might be wondering about your options when ordering a custom suit. At Westwood Hart, we believe the best tailored clothing combines timeless design principles with personal preferences that reflect how you actually live and dress.
Our online configurator allows you to design a suit or sport coat that matches your specific needs and style preferences. You can select from premium fabrics sourced from the world's finest mills, choose your preferred lapel style, button configuration, and yes—even customize your pocket details. Whether you want traditional flap pockets, sleek jetted pockets, or patch pockets for a more casual look, we build each garment to your exact specifications.
We construct our jackets with proper pocket bags and full functionality, then apply protective tack stitching to preserve the garment during shipping. This gives you the choice to keep pockets closed for that clean silhouette or to carefully open them if your lifestyle requires it. The decision remains yours, but we provide expert menswear style tips throughout the ordering process to help you make choices that will serve you well for years to come. Design your custom suit today and experience the difference that proper tailoring makes in how you look and feel.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I cut open the sewn pockets on my new suit jacket?
This depends on your priorities. If you want to maintain the jacket's clean silhouette and preserve its intended drape, leave the pockets sewn shut. The designer closed them to prevent bulging and sagging that occurs when pockets are filled. However, if you absolutely need the storage and understand the aesthetic trade-off, you can carefully remove the tack stitching with a seam ripper. Just be aware that using these pockets will change how the jacket hangs on your body.
What's the difference between a fake pocket and a sewn shut pocket?
A fake pocket is purely decorative with no functional construction—there's no opening or interior pocket bag, just a visual detail on the exterior. A sewn shut pocket is fully constructed and functional but temporarily closed with stitching. The sewn shut version can be opened and used, while the fake pocket cannot.
Why do expensive suits have sewn shut pockets?
Price doesn't determine whether pockets are sewn shut. Even luxury suits use this practice because designers want to preserve the garment's silhouette during shipping and discourage wearers from filling pockets, which ruins the tailored lines. The goal is maintaining the aesthetic quality the designer intended, regardless of the suit's price point.
Can I ask my tailor to add functional pockets to a jacket that has only decorative ones?
A skilled tailor can potentially add functional pockets to a jacket, but this is a complex alteration that requires opening the lining, creating pocket bags, and modifying the exterior. The cost may be substantial, and the results depend on the jacket's existing construction. It's often easier and more cost-effective to purchase a garment with functional pockets already built in.
How do I remove tack stitching without damaging my jacket?
Use a small seam ripper or sharp scissors to carefully cut the threads. Work slowly and cut only the temporary stitching, not the fabric itself. Pull the thread pieces out gently after cutting. Focus on vent stitching, sleeve button threads, and any brand labels, but think carefully before opening pocket stitching.
Are patch pockets on sport coats meant to be used?
Patch pockets on casual sport coats are generally more functional than the welted pockets on formal suit jackets. These exterior pockets add visual weight and texture to casual jackets, and using them causes less disruption to the overall silhouette. However, you should still avoid overstuffing them to maintain a clean appearance.
Why do women's clothes often have fake pockets while men's have sewn shut ones?
Women's fashion frequently uses purely decorative pockets with no functionality whatsoever, while men's tailored clothing typically features fully constructed pockets that are temporarily sewn shut. This reflects different design priorities—women's fashion often prioritizes silhouette over function more extremely than menswear, though both face similar tensions between aesthetics and utility.
Will opening my suit pockets void any warranty?
Opening sewn shut pockets typically won't void a warranty on quality issues or construction defects. However, any damage, stretching, or fit problems that result from filling and using those pockets likely won't be covered. Check with your specific retailer or tailor about their policies before making alterations to a new garment.