A Tribute to Edward Sexton: The Bespoke Revolution in Men's Tailoring
Introduction
The world of bespoke tailoring was forever changed by the indomitable spirit and unparalleled craftsmanship of Edward Sexton. His approach to tailoring reshaped Savile Row, introduced a new generation to the art of bespoke suits, and left an enduring legacy in men's tailoring. This comprehensive look at Sexton's life and career reveals the man behind the revolution and the impact of his work.
The Humble Beginnings
Edward Sexton, the man who would one day redefine bespoke tailoring, had humble beginnings. Born and raised in Elephant and Castle, a working-class neighborhood in London, Sexton's first taste of the world of luxury and fashion wasn't through tailoring, but through his first job as a waiter at the Waldorf hotel. It was there that he discovered his love for bespoke suits, a passion that would lead him to become one of the most influential tailors of his time.
His journey into the tailoring industry began from the ground up. He worked his way from being an apprentice to an assistant cutter and eventually, a head cutter. During this period, he worked at highly respected firms such as Kilgour French & Stanbury and Welsh & Jefferies. It was at Donaldson, Williams & Ward that he met Tommy Nutter, a stylish salesman with a knack for attracting high-spending customers.
Nutters of Savile Row: A Revolution in Tailoring
In 1969, Sexton and Nutter left Donaldson, Williams & Ward to start their own firm: Nutters of Savile Row. This venture marked a pivotal moment in the history of Savile Row and bespoke tailoring. The duo challenged the status quo, replacing the traditional frosted glass windows with vibrant displays and courted the press, drawing both attention and controversy. Their audacious approach extended to their designs.
The house style that Nutters developed was inspired by the traditional English hacking jacket but was amplified to create a striking impression. The jackets were full-bodied, with square shoulders, a nipped waist, and sweeping trousers. The result was an X-shaped silhouette that was unlike anything seen before in men's tailoring. The Nutters didn't stop there. They incorporated eccentric details such as taping the edge of their lapels and setting patch pockets on a bias, further distinguishing their designs.
The Sexton Style: A Blend of Craftsmanship and Bold Fashion
The Nutters' bold approach quickly attracted attention, particularly from young people who were seeking a departure from the conservative Savile Row suit. Their unique blend of craftsmanship and fashion flair resonated with a generation eager for a fresh take on the traditional suit. Nutters of Savile Row soon gained a reputation as the go-to place for those looking for a suit that was as much a statement as it was a piece of clothing.
Their clientele list soon expanded to include the who's who of the music and entertainment world. Mick Jagger wore an all-white Nutters suit when he married Bianca Perez-Mora Macias. Three of the Beatles wore Nutters on the cover of Abbey Road. They dressed Diana Ross, David Hockney, and Davie Bowie. Even Elton John, who was known for his flamboyant style, was a fan and ordered multiple suits. Sexton was the man behind all these suits, cutting each piece with an unwavering commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
The Edward Sexton Legacy
Following Tommy Nutter's death in 1992, Sexton opened his own shop, simply named Edward Sexton. His style evolved, becoming somewhat more toned down but still retaining a strong sense of glamour. The Sexton suit, with its padded shoulder, sweeping lapels, and angular lines, was as versatile as it was stylish. It could be a bold business suit in a dark worsted or a party suit in a casual fabric. Regardless of the occasion, a Sexton suit was always glamorous.
Sexton's work has had a profound influence on the world of tailoring. His unique approach to design and unwavering commitment to craftsmanship inspired many other tailors. Chittleborough & Morgan and Michael Browne have cited Sexton as a major influence. Even today, his influence is evident in the work of many bespoke tailoring houses.
Conclusion
Edward Sexton's life and career serve as a testament to the transformative power of creativity and craftsmanship in the world of bespoke tailoring. His unique approach to design and unwavering commitment to quality reshaped the industry and set a new standard for bespoke suits. From the humble beginnings in Elephant and Castle to the heights of Savile Row, Sexton's journey was marked by innovation, daring, and an indomitable spirit.
His loss is an immense one for the tailoring world. His influence, his vision, and his mastery of the craft have left a void that will be keenly felt. His legacy, however, will continue to inspire and influence the world of tailoring, ensuring that his impact will be felt for generations to come.
On behalf of everyone at Westwood Hart, we would like to extend our deepest condolences to the family of Edward Sexton and to all those at his company who continue to uphold his commitment to excellence in tailoring. His loss is felt deeply by all who knew him and by many who didn't but admired his work from afar.
Edward Sexton, rest in peace. Your legacy lives on.