In the intricate world of men's tailoring, understanding the nuances of fabric selection is crucial, especially when it comes to the choice of wool for suits. Among the various options, worsted wool emerges as a preeminent choice for men's suits globally. This video explores the intricacies of worsted wool, particularly focusing on the often-misunderstood concept of 'super numbers.'
Worsted Wool: Definition and Characteristics
Worsted wool, a term frequently encountered in the tailoring world, possesses a dual meaning. It can refer to either a type of combed yarn or the fabric made from this yarn. The process of combing aligns the wool fibers, discarding shorter staples to produce a long-lasting, fine, and smooth yarn with a glossy finish. The degree of combing and the twist applied to the wool significantly influence the yarn's weight, feel, and strength. Tightly twisted yarn yields a crisper texture, while looser twists result in softer, albeit weaker, yarn.
The Origin of 'Worsted'
The term 'worsted' finds its roots in historical context, dating back to the 12th century in the English city of Worsted, Norfolk. This city, along with others in the area, was renowned for cloth manufacturing and weaving, giving rise to the terminology used today.
Weighing Worsted Wool Quality
A common misconception in worsted wool is equating lighter weights with superior quality. However, this is not necessarily accurate. The example of overcoats illustrates this well: a heavier coat, such as one made from Donegal tweed, offers more sturdiness and warmth compared to a lighter, softer cashmere coat. Similarly, the cooling effect of a fabric doesn't solely depend on its weight. A heavy but loosely woven fabric like fresco can feel cooler than a tightly woven, lighter fabric. Additionally, factors such as the interlining and canvas of a jacket also influence its warmth, albeit this topic extends beyond the scope of this discussion.
Evolution in Fabric Weight
Today's fabrics generally tend to be lighter than those produced decades ago. This change is evident when comparing contemporary suits with older versions found in thrift stores, which typically exhibit a heavier fabric construction.
Understanding 'Super Numbers' in Worsted Wool
Central to the discussion of worsted wool is the concept of 'super numbers' – terms like 'Super 120s' or 'Super 180s' often seen in retail or fabric swatches. These numbers indicate the fineness of the wool fibre, with higher numbers representing finer (and thus lighter and smoother) wool. However, it's crucial to note that a higher super number doesn't always equate to better quality. It's more about the right choice for the intended use and personal preference, as finer wool can be less durable despite its luxurious feel.
Worsted Wool and Super Numbers: Understanding the Basics
Worsted wool, renowned for its fine texture and smooth finish, is a preferred choice for high-quality men's suits. The term 'super' in relation to worsted wool indicates the fineness of the wool fibers used in the fabric. Contrary to common belief, a higher super number does not inherently mean better quality; it simply denotes thinner fiber diameter. Additionally, the super number provides no information about the weave's density or the fabric's weight, crucial factors in determining a suit's overall feel and performance.
Historical Context: The Origin of Super Numbers
The legacy of super numbers is as fascinating as it is significant. The wool used in many of today's suits can be traced back to just two rams and four ewes gifted by King Charles IV of Spain to the Dutch East India Company in 1789. These sheep, transported to South Africa and later to Australia by British immigrant John McArthur, laid the foundation for the Australian wool industry. By the late 18th century, British wool merchants in Bradford, England, began to seek more objective ways to classify wool fineness, leading to the establishment of the Bradford system. This system was the precursor to the standardized grading of wool, including the super terminology.
The Evolution of Wool Grading and the Introduction of Super 100s
In a significant development, the wool mill of Joseph Lum and Sons in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, was able to produce 'Super 100s' wool, a grade previously thought unattainable. This breakthrough marked the inception of the super terminology for worsted wool suits. However, it's important to note that the grading of super wools can vary slightly between manufacturers. Reputable manufacturers generally adhere to the standards set by the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) in their Fabric Labelling Code of Practice, ensuring consistency in quality.
Super Numbers and Their Implications
The super number essentially measures the fineness of the woolen yarn, indicated by the frequency of twists per inch. Higher super numbers usually correlate with a finer, and often lighter, cloth. However, this is not always the case. The fineness of woolen yarns is typically measured in micrometers or microns. A higher super number typically means the fabric will be softer and feel more luxurious, while a lower super number indicates a sturdier, potentially warmer cloth.
Super Numbers: Clarifying Common Misconceptions
Contrary to popular belief, the super number of a fabric does not correlate with its thread count. While a higher super number may indicate the rarity of the wool fibers used, it is not a direct measure of the fabric's subjective quality. This distinction is crucial in understanding what the super number truly represents.
The True Meaning of 'Super'
The term 'super' can only be rightfully applied to fabrics made entirely of pure new wool. In cases where wool is blended with other materials such as cashmere, alpaca, or silk, the designation 'S' is used instead, but not the full term 'super.' This distinction underscores the exclusivity associated with pure worsted wool fabrics.
Wearability and Care: The Impact of Super Numbers
As the super number increases, indicating finer wool fibers, the fabric becomes more delicate and challenging to maintain. Fabrics with a high super number, such as Super 180s, offer a luxurious feel but are more susceptible to wear and tear compared to more robust, lower super number fabrics like Super 100s. The latter is more durable, less prone to wrinkling, and better suited for regular use. Additionally, finer fabrics are more prone to snagging, and repairing these snags can be more complex than with coarser fabrics.
Practical Approach to Choosing Suit Fabrics
While the super number can be a useful indicator of the fineness of wool, it should not be the sole criterion for selecting a suit. Quality suits can be crafted from wool ranging from Super 100s to Super 150s and beyond. Ultimately, the fit of the suit on the wearer's body is paramount, transcending the importance of the super number. A well-fitted suit, regardless of its super number, will invariably look superior to a poorly fitted, higher super number suit.
Guidelines for Suit Selection Based on Super Numbers
For everyday wear, suits with lower super numbers (below Super 100s to Super 120s) are recommended due to their durability and practicality. For more formal occasions such as business meetings or conferences, suits in the Super 130s to Super 150s range are suitable. For special events, higher super numbers like Super 180s or above can add an extra touch of luxury and sophistication. These are general guidelines and should be tailored to individual preferences and needs.
Conclusion: Balancing Super Numbers with Other Suit Qualities
While the super number offers insight into the fineness and softness of worsted wool, it is not the definitive measure of a suit's quality. The fit, style, and intended frequency of wear are equally crucial considerations. Understanding these factors helps in making informed decisions about suit selection, ensuring that the suit not only meets aesthetic standards but also serves practical purposes effectively.
Custom Tailored Suits by Westwood Hart
At Westwood Hart, we pride ourselves on offering an exquisite range of worsted wool fabrics, encompassing options from the refined Super 120s to the luxurious Super 180s, and every grade in between. Our diverse selection caters to the discerning tastes and unique preferences of each customer.
Understanding the intricate world of worsted wool and the nuances of 'super numbers' is just the beginning. We believe in providing a personalized tailoring experience where you, the customer, can design your own suit. This bespoke process ensures that each garment is not just a piece of clothing but a reflection of your personal style and sophistication.
In our atelier, you have the freedom to choose from our extensive fabric range, selecting the perfect weight, texture, and fineness to suit your individual needs. Whether you prefer the durability and practicality of Super 120s or the finer, luxurious touch of Super 180s, our expert tailors will guide you through each step of the design process. From fabric selection to final fittings, we ensure that every detail is crafted to your exact specifications.
At Westwood Hart, we merge traditional craftsmanship with modern design, creating suits that transcend mere fashion statements. Each suit is a work of art, tailored to offer the perfect fit, unparalleled comfort, and enduring style. We invite you to experience the epitome of bespoke tailoring, where your vision comes to life through the finest worsted wool fabrics.
Discover the difference at Westwood Hart – where your perfect suit awaits, crafted from your choice of the world's finest fabrics. Step into a realm of tailor-made elegance and let us create a garment that is uniquely yours.