Button Choices in Men's Custom Suits and Fashion

Key Takeaways

  • Buttons are more than functional elements; they significantly impact the aesthetic of men's garments, including custom suits.
  • The choice of button material, from Mother of Pearl to Horn, adds both aesthetic and functional value to the outfit.
  • Stitching techniques like the "zampa di gallina" or "chicken's foot stitch" are not just marks of quality but also stylistic choices that add subtle dynamism to buttons.

In the world of men's fashion, buttons frequently take a back seat, often viewed merely as functional elements. However, their role is far from inconsequential. For example, the number of buttons on a garment can dramatically alter its aesthetic. A shirt with a button-down collar exudes casual flair, while a single-button tailored jacket creates a different visual impact compared to jackets with two or three buttons. The quantity of buttons can even shape the silhouette, influencing the V-shape formed by the lapels and chest.

Buttons Beyond Shirts and Jackets

Buttons are not confined to shirts and jackets; they also find their place in trousers. They serve not just for fastening the waistband or fly but also for attaching suspenders. Buttons on rear pockets, although seemingly decorative, provide a degree of security for items like wallets. Beyond these menswear staples, buttons feature on waistcoats, gloves, and even traditional button boots, each adhering to its own set of buttoning norms.

The Art of Fastening and Unfastening Buttons

Whether buttons are fastened or left unfastened also conveys a message. An unbuttoned look leans towards a casual style, while a fully buttoned appearance leans more formal. For instance, leaving the buttons on a surgeon's cuff unfastened can indicate a relaxed demeanour. However, it's vital to assess the formality of the setting before making such sartorial decisions.

The Impact of Button Colour and Contrast

Buttons often blend seamlessly with the garment, but contrasting buttons can make a bold statement. A navy shirt with bright white buttons, for example, immediately appears less formal. This contrast is commonly seen in sport coats crafted from summer fabrics like wool hopsacks or linens. A quintessential example is the navy blazer, frequently adorned with contrasting metallic buttons, adding a dash of audacity to the outfit.

Subtle Coordination Through Buttons

Even when buttons don't contrast sharply, they can be employed for nuanced coordination within an ensemble. Brown buttons on a navy jacket, for instance, can harmonise with brown trousers, subtly tying the outfit together.

The Nuances of Button Stitching

The stitching of buttons, often an overlooked detail, can imbue a garment with character. While the standard X-stitch is prevalent, other stitching options like vertical or horizontal parallel stitches or zigzag stitches exist for true menswear aficionados. The "zampa di gallina" or "chicken's foot stitch," a technique originating from Neapolitan artisans, adds a subtle dynamism to the buttons and is a favourite among menswear enthusiasts.

Material Matters: From Plastic to Mother of Pearl

The material of the button is a crucial consideration. While cheap plastic buttons are prone to cracking and do little to elevate your style, buttons made from natural materials like Mother of Pearl or horn add both aesthetic and functional value. Buttons made from brass or other metals are often featured on blazers, lending a touch of authenticity and durability.

The Final Touch: A Well-Curated Wardrobe

In conclusion, while buttons may appear insignificant, their impact on a custom suit or any other menswear item is substantial. From the type of buttons—be it Mother of Pearl, Horn, or Corozo—to their quantity, fastening, and even stitching, each detail contributes to the garment's overall aesthetic. So the next time you find yourself pondering the intricacies of men's buttons, remember: it's these minute details that complete an outfit.