Suit Up in Style: A Comprehensive Guide to Different Suit Styles and When to Wear Them

In this article, the focus is on the differences between various suit styles and suppliers, with the aim of assisting readers in selecting the most suitable suit. Additionally, a detailed explanation of numerous suit components is provided, as well as a discussion on the importance of building a style and purpose profile, and choosing the correct size.

A Basic Suit

A basic suit typically consists of a two-piece or three-piece ensemble made from pure wool or a wool blend. Notched lapels are common, but occasionally they can be peaked. Single or double-breasted styles are available, usually featuring flap pockets. Some suits also include a narrow ticket pocket above the right flap pocket. Trousers come in plain or pleated front styles, often with belt loops on the waistband. Hems can be finished plainly or with cuffs.

When purchasing a work suit, it's recommended to buy two pairs of trousers, as they tend to wear out faster than the jacket. Suitable colors for these suits include navy and charcoal, with patterns such as pinstripe or check. To complement the suit, shirts in matching colors like white, gray, and blue are ideal. Black suits are typically reserved for funerals or evening events and should be avoided.

Dinner suit

Also known as a tuxedo, a dinner suit is usually available in navy or black, and sometimes white. The lapel is faced with satin or grosgrain, in a shawl or peak shape. Pockets are jetted, with no flap or tucked-in flaps, and no ticket pocket. Buttons are covered in the same fabric as the lapel, avoiding plastic, horn, or metal. The trousers feature a satin strip down the side of the leg and are often cuffed.

A tuxedo should be worn with a dress shirt that has a pleated or textured front, with studs or a covered panel to conceal the buttons. Trousers should be paired with a cummerbund in the same color as the lapel or with braces. Belts are not recommended. A black or white self-tie bow tie and polished dress shoes complete the look.

Tails

Tails are worn for occasions that require a morning suit or white tie. The jacket has a long, rounded back, similar to a tail. Most elements resemble black tie attire, except the bow tie or wide necktie must always be white. Trousers are gray and pleated, often paired with a top hat. A white waistcoat is a common addition, and the trousers are sometimes cuffed. This highly formal look is rarely seen in some regions.

Sports Jacket

Constructed from breathable materials like cotton, linen, wool, or blends, a sports jacket is often half-lined. With less shoulder padding, it offers a more relaxed look but can still be tailored for a stylish fit. Available in various colors, including bright shades like red and light blue, sports jackets can be personalized with details like elbow patches or different pocket styles. As they usually don't come with matching trousers, they can be paired with jeans, chinos, or suit trousers for various looks. A pocket square adds a nice finishing touch.

Blazer

Originating from naval uniforms, blazers are typically dark blue and reminiscent of school uniforms. They have a squarish shape with wide shoulder pads, notched lapels, and patched pockets. Made from dense and heavy wool like worsted wool serge, blazers often feature gold metal buttons, gold stripes, and epaulets. They can be worn with check trousers or light-colored chinos for a preppy, upscale sports jacket look.