Key Takeaways
- Morning dress, or "tails," is ideal for formal day events, characterised by its structured morning coat.
- The morning coat, typically black, features a single button and peaked lapel, designed for a sleek, hourglass silhouette.
- Waistcoat options range from classic dove grey to pale blue, adding contrast and personal flair to the ensemble.
- Essential accessories include a starched collar, double-cuffed shirt, pocket square, and polished black footwear.
- Morning dress is versatile, suitable for weddings, Royal Ascot, investitures, and other prestigious occasions, always ensuring a distinguished appearance.
Understanding Morning Dress: An Overview
Morning dress, also referred to as "tails" or "morning tails," is an elegant ensemble traditionally worn for formal day events. This attire is often misunderstood due to its specific terminologies and usage, especially in distinguishing it from evening tails. It's important to note that "tails" mentioned on invitations should specify "morning" to avoid confusion with evening wear.
Key Elements of Morning Dress Tailoring
The Morning Coat: Structure and Style
The centerpiece of morning dress is the morning coat, typically black and featuring a single button with a peaked lapel. This garment is structured, designed to create a pronounced hourglass silhouette. The horizontal seam at the waist is a defining feature, adding to the garment's shapeliness. This seam is absent in lounge suits, which are less formal and lack the structured tailoring of morning coats.
Fabric Choices and Pocket Details in Morning Attire
Traditional morning coats are devoid of side pockets, a trend that emerged around the turn of the 20th century to enhance the garment's sleek appearance. Occasionally, a small ticket pocket may appear on the right-hand side, a detail more common in post-war models. A chest pocket, however, is standard, often used for a pocket square.
Selecting the Right Length and Fit for Morning Coats
The length of morning coats has varied over the decades, ranging from long, almost floor-length coats to shorter, jacket-like versions. We believe the ideal length should flatter the wearer, often slightly shorter rather than too long to maintain a contemporary yet traditional look. A high waistline is crucial for achieving a flattering form.
Classic Colours and Waistcoat Options for Morning Dress
While black is the classic colour for morning coats, dark charcoal is also an acceptable choice. The coat is typically paired with a contrasting waistcoat, often in dove grey or pale blue. There was a trend in the 1990s for more flamboyant waistcoats, inspired by popular culture, but this has waned in favour of more subdued, elegant options. Double-breasted waistcoats are preferred for their clean, streamlined appearance under the coat.
Shirt and Collar Details for Authentic Morning Attire
Morning dress traditionally includes a white, double-cuffed shirt, ideal for cufflinks. While most modern shirts are collar-attached, a starch collar is a distinctive feature that elevates the look, providing a crisp and structured appearance. This contrasts with the more common attached collar shirts, which, though smart, lack the same impact.
The Importance of Starch Collars in Morning Dress
A starched collar pushes the tie knot slightly forward, creating a refined and polished look. We suggest pairing this with a mother-of-pearl stick pin, a traditional accessory for morning dress. Double cuffs are essential, preferably with matching or subtly contrasting cuffs to the shirt body.
Accessorising Morning Dress: Pocket Squares and Ties
A morning coat ensemble benefits greatly from a pocket square, which breaks up the expanse of black and adds a touch of personal flair. Ties should be fine-patterned or woven, avoiding overly bold designs to maintain the outfit's formal tone.
Traditional Headwear: The Top Hat in Morning Dress
A top hat is the traditional headwear for morning dress, though it's often carried rather than worn indoors. For modern weddings, a top hat may not be necessary unless specified by the dress code.
Choosing the Right Footwear for Morning Attire
Footwear should be black and polished, with options including calf oxfords, Chelsea boots, or even a sleek loafer. The key is maintaining the overall formality and elegance of the outfit.
Versatility of Morning Dress for Various Formal Events
Morning dress is suitable for various formal daytime events, including weddings, Royal Ascot, and investitures. The black morning coat is versatile, appropriate for both celebratory and somber occasions, provided that accessories like waistcoats and pocket squares are adjusted accordingly. For example, a more conservative black waistcoat and a muted tie are suitable for memorial services.
Conclusion: Mastering the Elegance of Morning Dress
Morning dress, with its rich tradition and structured elegance, remains a distinguished choice for formal daytime events. By understanding the nuances of its components—such as the importance of the morning coat's seam, the appropriate use of accessories, and the significance of starched collars—one can achieve a polished and historically informed look. The classic black morning coat, complemented by carefully selected accessories, ensures that one is impeccably dressed for any occasion requiring this refined attire.
For those seeking the pinnacle of elegance in their formal attire, Westwood Hart offers an unparalleled selection of bespoke tailored suits and sportcoats. Our expert tailors ensure each piece is crafted to perfection, embodying the sophistication and tradition of authentic morning dress. Whether for weddings, investitures, or other distinguished events, our custom designs provide a flawless fit and timeless style.
If you are interested in having a morning coat made, please contact us. We will provide a one-on-one consultation to develop your unique morning coat, ensuring it meets your individual style and requirements.
Embrace the opportunity to express your unique personality through our online configurator, where you can design a suit that reflects your individual taste. Experience the art of bespoke tailoring with Westwood Hart and design your suit today.