Key Takeaways:
- Historical Legacy: The suit's evolution is a reflection of cultural and stylistic changes through the centuries.
- Bespoke Craftsmanship: Westwood Hart's dedication to bespoke tailoring brings historical elegance to the modern wardrobe.
- Contemporary Interpretations: Each era's distinctive suit style, from the lounge suit to the power suit, is expertly reinterpreted by Westwood Hart.
- Personalised Style: Westwood Hart suits are more than garments; they are personalized narratives woven with the threads of history and individual style.
- The Future of Suits: With a nod to the past and an eye on contemporary trends, Westwood Hart is at the forefront of defining the future of men's suits.
In the captivating realm of men's fashion, the evolution of the suit stands as a testament to the enduring allure of bespoke tailoring. This rich tapestry of sartorial history reveals how the suit, a quintessential element of menswear, has evolved over the years while retaining core elements that define its essence.
The Genesis of the Suit
The term 'suit' finds its roots in the French word 'Suivre,' implying a harmonious combination where the jacket complements the trousers, both crafted from identical fabric. This concept of a cohesive ensemble, blending both jacket and pants, revolutionised men's fashion, marking a departure from more flamboyant attire to a more streamlined, coordinated look.
Beau Brummell: The Architect of Modern Menswear
The transformative journey of the suit owes much to Beau Brummell, an iconic figure in 19th-century England. Before Brummell's influence, men's fashion was heavily adorned, with elaborate embroidery, velvet fabrics, knee breeches, and stockings, heavily influenced by the French Court. Brummell's radical approach stripped men's attire of excessive ornamentation, introducing long trousers paired with boots and a less ornate coat. This shift not only reflected a change in aesthetic preference but also a political statement, as French styles were tainted by the Revolution's excesses. Brummell's less ornate style laid the groundwork for the modern suit, offering a muted colour palette and a more unified silhouette.
The Victorian Era and the Evolution of the Frock Coat
As we journeyed into the Victorian era (1837-1901), the frock coat emerged as the cornerstone of men's fashion. Resembling modern overcoats, these knee-length garments, available in both single and double-breasted styles, evolved throughout the era. The frock coat's evolution bifurcated into two distinct styles: the morning coat, retaining the tails but adopting open quarters and a single-breasted design, and the lounge suit, which lost the tails entirely. The morning coat, once a staple of formal daywear, now finds its place in high society events like royal weddings, particularly in England. In contrast, the lounge suit, known also as 'Dittoes' (indicating the use of the same fabric for both jacket and trousers), became a symbol of understated elegance and practicality.
Contrasting Trousers and the Emergence of the Lounge Suit
While frock coats and morning coats could be paired with matching trousers, they were frequently worn with contrasting ones, maintaining a dark colour scheme yet offering a subtle distinction. The lounge suit, however, emphasised the concept of matching fabric for both the top and bottom, a revolutionary idea that set the foundation for contemporary suit designs.
This fascinating evolution from ornate, colourful attire to the refined, coordinated suits of today underscores the dynamic nature of fashion history. It reflects societal changes, cultural shifts, and the timeless pursuit of authentic, custom menswear. Understanding this journey not only enriches our appreciation of the suit's heritage but also highlights its enduring relevance in the modern wardrobe. As we delve deeper into this topic, we invite you to explore the intricate details and historical nuances that continue to shape the world of bespoke suiting.
The lounge suit, an iconic cornerstone of men's fashion, boasts a rich history dating back to the mid-19th century in Scotland. Initially conceived as a casual outdoor garment for the British countryside, its evolution is a fascinating journey through cultural shifts and stylistic adaptations.
The Origin and Casual Nature of the Lounge Suit
Originating in the 1850s to 1860s, the lounge suit was crafted from heavier fabrics, designed for comfort and practicality in outdoor settings. Contrary to modern perceptions of the suit as a formal attire, it was initially a casual, less formal option compared to the frock and morning coats of the era. The lounge suit's defining features included a shorter, sack-like cut without tails and pronounced front darts, offering a relaxed silhouette. Its inception marked a significant departure from traditional formal wear, laying the foundation for the modern three-piece suit, which included a matching waistcoat to combat the lack of central heating.
The Evolution into the 20th Century
As the 20th century dawned, the basic structure of the suit as we know it today had been established. However, the ensuing decades saw various modifications in details such as lapel width, jacket length, buttoning point, and fabric types, adapting the fundamental design to contemporary tastes. During the Edwardian era, the lounge suit gained popularity, gradually overshadowing the more formal frock and morning coats. Fabrics from this period were notably heavier and coarser, a necessity given the lack of refined fabric finishing techniques and the absence of central heating. Urban suits tended to be tailored from darker fabrics due to the sooty urban environment, while country suits featured more patterns and brown tones, as depicted in the early episodes of 'Downton Abbey.'
The 1920s: A Decade of Sartorial Transformation
The 1920s heralded a dynamic era for the suit. Influenced by military styles post-World War I, suits initially featured a trim, slightly longer jacket with higher buttoning points and slim, cuffed trousers. However, by the decade's end, the suit silhouette evolved to include wider shoulders, more waist suppression, and higher-rise trousers, creating an illusion of longer legs and a pronounced waistline. This period saw the introduction of the drape suit, popularised in the 1930s, which featured more fabric in the chest and wider pants. The Jazz Age brought about a dramatic shift in suit materials, embracing bolder colours, flashy patterns, and a livelier aesthetic, a stark contrast to the muted tones of previous generations. This era's style is vividly captured in series like 'Jeeves and Wooster' and 'Boardwalk Empire,' showcasing the exuberant spirit of the time.
Accessorising and the Roaring Twenties
The 1920s, also known as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age, saw a surge in suit accessorising. Men began experimenting with pocket squares, collar pins, and bolder patterns, rebelling against the tradition of dark, muted suits. This period's fashion ethos is exemplified in 'The Great Gatsby,' particularly through the character's iconic pink suit.
The evolution of the suit in the 20th century is a story rich in cultural, social, and aesthetic shifts. Each decade from the 1920s to the 1970s brought its own unique influences and styles, shaping the suit into a versatile and dynamic element of menswear.
The 1920s and the Double-Breasted Waistcoat
This era witnessed the rise of the double-breasted waistcoat, often worn under a single-breasted jacket with notch lapels. This combination, unconventional by today's standards, was a hallmark of the time. The waistcoat's prominence underlined the era's penchant for layered sophistication in suit design.
The 1930s: The Drape Suit Era:
The 1930s were dominated by the drape suit, characterized by wide shoulders, pronounced waist suppression, and high-rise, full-cut trousers that tapered slightly towards the shoes. This style, prevalent in England, the US, and Vienna, boasted longer jackets with no back vents, ensuring a clean line. The heavier fabrics used during this period ensured excellent drape and minimal wrinkling. Icons like Cary Grant and Clark Gable exemplified this style, leveraging it to enhance their on-screen personas.
The 1940s: Wartime Minimalism and the Zoot Suit
World War II ushered in an era of minimalism in suit design, driven by fabric rationing. The 1940s suit was lean and trim, with narrow lapels and cuffless trousers, resembling modern slim-fit suits. The zoot suit, however, stood in stark contrast. A symbol of counterculture, especially in African American and Mexican communities, it featured baggy pants, an oversized long jacket, and exaggeratedly padded shoulders, representing a bold fashion statement amidst wartime austerity.
The 1950s: Post-War Rebellion and Ivy League Style
The post-war era saw a return to pre-war suit styles, with wider lapels and pleated trousers. The decline of the waistcoat continued due to the advent of central heating. The 1950s also witnessed a generational rebellion against traditional styles, with younger men opting for t-shirts, jeans, and leather jackets. The Ivy League style, epitomized by the sack suit, became popular, characterized by single-breasted jackets with minimal shoulder padding and a natural silhouette. This era saw the rise of Brooks Brothers in American fashion, and an increased preference for sport coats due to their texture and color variation.
The 1960s: Extension and Refinement
The 1960s continued the close-fitting suit style of the 50s, with some shoulder padding and narrow ties. Trousers were tapered towards the ankle and shorter, highlighting the shoes. Advances in fabric technology introduced nylon and other artificial fibers, adding variety to suit materials. This decade's style is well captured in the series 'Mad Men,' showcasing bold patterns and slim suits.
The 1970s: A Stylistic Low Point
The 1970s are often viewed as a low point in suit history. Suits remained tight but featured oversized lapels and flashy designs, with trousers often cut in a flare style. This era marked a significant departure from the classic suit silhouette, embracing more experimental and avant-garde designs.
Through these decades, the suit has navigated various cultural and social landscapes, reflecting and adapting to the changing times. From the elegant drape suits of the 1930s to the minimalist designs of the 1940s and the rebellious styles of the 1950s and 1960s, the suit's evolution underscores its enduring significance in men's fashion.
The journey of the suit through the latter half of the 20th century and into the 21st century showcases a remarkable oscillation between formality, casualness, and the interplay of cultural influences.
The 1970s: The Disco Era and the Casual Three-Piece Suit
The 1970s reintroduced the three-piece suit, but in a context far removed from its traditional roots. Influenced heavily by the disco culture, exemplified by John Travolta in "Saturday Night Fever," these suits were casual, often brightly colored, and made predominantly from synthetic materials. This decade, despite its sartorial experimentation, is often viewed as one to be forgotten in the history of tailored menswear.
The 1980s and the Rise of the Power Suit
The 1980s marked a significant resurgence for the suit, particularly with the advent of the power suit. Epitomized by Richard Gere in "American Gigolo" and Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in "Wall Street," these suits, often designed by Giorgio Armani, featured broad shoulders, wider lapels, and a low buttoning point. The power suit was a direct expression of the decade's excess and celebration of capitalism.
The 1990s: A Decline in Suit Style
The 1990s are often regarded as another low point in suit fashion. This era exaggerated the worst elements of the 1980s designs, leading to oversized and disproportionate suits with overly long, baggy pants and high-buttoned jackets, creating an unflattering, clownish appearance.
The Early 2000s and the Return of Slim Fit
The new millennium saw a shift back to minimalist styles reminiscent of the 1940s or even the 1960s mod suits. Suits became slimmer, shorter, and featured higher buttoning points. Designers like Tom Brown pushed the boundaries with extremely short jackets and pants, while others like Tom Ford offered a more balanced, contemporary slim cut.
The 2010s: Casualisation and Bespoke Resurgence
The following decade witnessed a general casualisation of society, reducing the necessity for traditional suits. However, there was a concurrent resurgence in classic menswear among those who chose to wear suits for their aesthetic and the way they made the wearer feel. While popular suits remained slim, there were changes in jacket gorge height and buttoning points. Suit Supply exemplified this trend with its slimmer, shorter jackets. Additionally, the rise of online made-to-measure services democratized suit customization, expanding access beyond traditional tailoring.
Recent Trends and the Future of Suits
In recent years, the trend has shifted towards more casual styles with natural shoulders, slim silhouettes, and sometimes even striking trousers. There's an increased preference for soft, unstructured jackets, often made from knit fabrics, reflecting a desire for comfort and flexibility. The future of the suit seems to be heading towards a blend of casual elegance, with an emphasis on texture, color, and a relaxed yet sophisticated silhouette.
As we look ahead, it's clear that the suit's evolution is far from over. The suit continues to adapt, reflecting societal changes and individual preferences. From its origins as a symbol of formality to its current diverse interpretations, the suit remains a central pillar in menswear, continuously redefining the boundaries of style and elegance.
Discover the Westwood Hart Difference
In the exploration of the suit's storied past, one cannot overlook the role of expert tailoring in its evolution. At Westwood Hart, we proudly uphold this rich tradition of bespoke craftsmanship. Our dedication to the art of tailoring is evident in every stitch and seam of our suits, crafted to embody the elegance and sophistication that has defined menswear for centuries.
Embracing the legacy left by icons like Beau Brummell and the timeless designs of the Victorian era, Westwood Hart offers a contemporary interpretation of these classic styles. Our bespoke suits are not merely garments; they are a testament to the enduring allure of custom, authentic menswear, meticulously tailored to meet the exacting standards of the modern gentleman.
Whether it's capturing the refined simplicity of the lounge suit or the bold statement of the power suit, our tailors at Westwood Hart are adept at translating historical elegance into modern sophistication. Each suit is a narrative in fabric, a personal story woven with the threads of history and style.
Discover the Westwood Hart difference – where heritage meets contemporary elegance, and where every suit is a masterpiece of bespoke tailoring.