Key Takeaways:
- Suspenders were the primary trouser accessory from the 1820s to the 1940s, worn with high-rise trousers that sat at the natural waist
- The decline of suspenders began during World War II when cloth rationing led to slimmer, lower-rise trouser styles that didn't pair well with braces
- The casualization of men's wear made suspenders seem too formal, especially as suits lost their position as everyday attire in the 1950s and 1960s
- Belts resurged after World War II due to their practicality in military uniforms and association with rugged masculinity
- Manufacturers stopped including suspender buttons on trousers as belt loops became standard, creating a self-reinforcing cycle
- Negative stereotypes developed associating suspenders with the elderly, overweight men, yuppies (like Michael Douglas's Gordon Gecko character), nerds (like Steve Urkel), and skinhead subcultures
- While suspenders remain a classic menswear accessory, they're unlikely to regain their former dominance in the suspenders vs belts debate
Why Men Stopped Wearing Suspenders: The Complete History
Why men stopped wearing suspenders is a question that reveals a fascinating transformation in men's fashion. For over a century, suspenders were the default method for keeping trousers at their proper height. From the 1820s through the 1940s, braces reigned supreme as the essential trouser accessory. Yet today, they've largely disappeared from everyday wear. What happened?
The history of suspenders is intertwined with the evolution of menswear itself. High-rise trousers that sat at the natural waist were the standard style during suspenders' heyday. These trousers paired perfectly with braces, creating a comfortable and functional combination that men relied on for generations. But as society changed, so did fashion.
The decline of suspenders didn't happen overnight. It was a gradual shift influenced by world events, cultural movements, and changing attitudes toward formality. World Wars reshaped trouser construction. Youth culture challenged traditional dress codes. Manufacturing decisions removed the very buttons that held braces in place. Why did men abandon this once-essential accessory?
Understanding the suspenders vs belts debate requires looking beyond simple preference. It's about how military uniforms influenced civilian fashion, how Hollywood shaped perceptions, and how negative stereotypes emerged around those who continued wearing braces. From yuppies suspenders in the 1980s to the unfortunate associations with various subcultures, the story is more complex than you might think.
The casualization of men's wear played a central role in this transformation. As suits became less common and casual attire took over, suspenders seemed increasingly out of place. What was once considered underwear became a relic of a more formal era. Are you ready to discover the complete story behind why men stopped wearing suspenders?
Changing Trouser Styles and the Decline of Suspenders
Changing trouser styles fundamentally altered the relationship between men and their braces. From the 1820s onward, suspenders served as the primary way to keep trousers up, and this coincided perfectly with high-rise trousers being the dominant style. These trousers sat at the natural waist or navel, creating an ideal pairing with suspenders.
For roughly 120 years, this combination remained standard. Whether pleated or plain, high-rise styles persisted into the 1940s. The fit was intentional. Trousers were often cut looser than strictly necessary around the waist because suspenders would keep them in place regardless. This provided extra comfort without sacrificing proper positioning.
Belts didn't work well with these high-rise styles. It would be unsightly and uncomfortable to cinch trousers at the natural waist using a belt. The pressure point created by a belt at that height wasn't practical. Belts also clashed visually with waistcoats, which were nearly universally worn during this era as an additional layer.
World War II changed everything. Official cloth rationing in Britain and unofficial rationing in the United States forced trouser styles to evolve. Pants became slimmer and sat lower on the waist to conserve fabric. This rationing was a primary factor in lowering the typical trouser rise. Suspenders simply didn't look right with these new, lower-cut trousers.
The shift had actually begun earlier, though. During World War I, lower and more mid-rise styles started appearing, principally in military uniforms. But it was the fabric restrictions of World War II that truly cemented the change. As trouser rises dropped, the practicality and aesthetic appeal of suspenders dropped with them. The fashion world was moving toward a new silhouette, and braces were being left behind.
The Casualization of Men's Wear and Suspenders as Underwear
The casualization of men's wear created an environment where suspenders simply couldn't thrive. Non-utilitarian suspenders look and function best when worn with clothing of similar formality. They belong with suits, odd jackets, and waistcoats. They don't work well when openly displayed with casual ensembles.
Here's something most people don't realize about suspenders as underwear. Up until the 1940s, suspenders were widely considered underwear. Showing them in public was inappropriate. A 2010 Time magazine article highlighted just how strict these standards were. In 1938, a town in Long Island, New York, actually tried to ban gentlemen from wearing suspenders without a coat. They called it sartorial indecency. The ban was later overturned after residents complained, but the sentiment reveals prevailing attitudes.
Visible suspenders were considered risque. Men simply didn't remove their coats in front of others if they were wearing braces underneath. This wasn't just about modesty. It was about maintaining proper decorum in public spaces. Waistcoats served as an additional layer to ensure suspenders remained hidden from view.
The World War II and post-war eras began relaxing these standards. Men occasionally took off their coats when in front of others. This shift might seem small, but it represented a fundamental change in social expectations. During the 1950s and 1960s, suits started losing their foothold as the default option for public wear.
Youth culture and countercultural movements accelerated this transformation. These groups championed more casual styles that were largely incompatible with the inherent formality of suspenders. The increased societal value placed on youth meant their fashion choices carried weight. As casual wear became more acceptable and eventually dominant, suspenders were caught in the crossfire. They represented an older, more formal world that society was actively moving away from. Public perception of braces shifted from essential accessory to outdated relic.
The Resurgence of Belts in Men's Fashion History
The belts resurgence marked a decisive turning point in the suspenders vs belts debate. During World War I, belts remained common on the exteriors of field uniforms, following military tradition. Most European armies still preferred suspenders for keeping trousers up, but Americans began favoring belts for this purpose.
World War II proved to be the tipping point. Suspenders were issued to troops, but belts ultimately proved more practical on the battlefield. The demands of combat situations required accessories that could withstand rigorous physical activity and quick adjustments. Belts met these requirements better than suspenders.
By the end of the 1940s, belts had reclaimed their position as the number one trouser accessory for men. This shift happened in tandem with changing trouser styles and increased casualization. The timing wasn't coincidental. All these factors reinforced each other, creating a perfect storm that left suspenders behind.
There's a common misconception worth addressing. Many believe soldiers returning from World War II had grown so accustomed to their military-issued belts that they simply stopped wearing suspenders once they got home. The reality is more nuanced. Belts had already been worn with military uniforms during the 19th century and into World War I, and that hadn't spelled the decline of suspenders at that time.
However, veterans' experiences during World War II were at least a contributing factor. The practicality they discovered on the battlefield influenced their peacetime choices. Combined with the other cultural and manufacturing shifts happening simultaneously, military uniforms belts helped cement the belt's dominant position. The belt had struck back, and this time it won decisively.
Lack of Suspender Buttons: Manufacturers' Impact on the Decline
Manufacturers made choices that sealed the fate of suspenders. As casual trousers and the belts that went with them became more popular, more and more ready-to-wear pants weren't even being made with suspender buttons. This created a practical barrier that discouraged men from wearing braces.
Levi Strauss provides a perfect example of this shift. The long-standing association between belts and manual labor influenced their design decisions. They included belt loops on their trouser lines beginning in 1922. By 1937, they had completely removed suspender buttons from their products. The message was clear: belts were the future.
Innovation in trouser design also played a role. In 1934, the Dax brand of London introduced self-supporting trousers with side adjusters on the waistband. These side adjusters offered another non-suspender option for keeping trousers in place. While they're still worn today, largely by menswear enthusiasts, they represented yet another alternative that nudged braces aside.
The lack of suspender buttons created a self-reinforcing cycle. Men who wore more casual trousers were discouraged from wearing suspenders because they would either have to add the buttons themselves or take a trip to the alterations tailor. Most chose neither option. They simply wore belts instead.
This cycle gained momentum quickly. More customers favored casual trousers with belt loops, leading manufacturers to make more trousers with belt loops, leading customers to buy more of these trousers. Each iteration made suspenders less accessible and less practical for the average man. Manufacturers followed market demand, but their choices also shaped that demand. By removing suspender buttons as a standard feature, they effectively voted against the future of braces in everyday menswear.
Negative Stereotypes Suspenders: From Yuppies to Skinheads
Negative stereotypes suspenders accumulated over the decades proved devastating to their reputation. Perhaps because of the belt's association with the military and rugged men in general, belts became hot by the mid-20th century while suspenders were not. Cultural associations matter in fashion, and suspenders ended up on the wrong side of popular perception.
Real life and fictionalized heroes from World War II were closely associated with belts. Cowboys like John Wayne wore belts. Youthful rebels like Marlon Brando, James Dean, and Steve McQueen, who proliferated on both TV and the silver screen in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, all wore belts. These were the icons men wanted to emulate. Suspenders weren't part of their image.
Meanwhile, suspenders became a comedic element in entertainment. Vaudeville and early film relied on suspender gags. Pants that didn't fit well would be held up by suspenders that would then pop loose, causing the trousers to fall down. The joke landed every time, but it damaged the accessory's reputation.
Remember that suspenders were considered underwear when braces were most common. Seeing them in public carried a mild taboo, which became intertwined with humor. Even as suspenders became less commonly worn, these humorous associations not only remained but came to the forefront. Suspenders were increasingly seen as cartoonish or clownish.
After losing the trouser accessory position in the 1940s, suspenders became associated with specific groups in cultural contexts. The old-fashioned. The elderly. The overweight. Yuppies. Nerds. Skinheads. These associations created a web of negative stereotypes that made most men reluctant to wear braces. Each group added another layer of baggage to an accessory that was already struggling to remain relevant in an increasingly casual world.
Are Suspenders Old-Fashioned? The Generation Gap
Suspenders pair best with more formal attire. As the world became increasingly driven by youth culture and continued to casualize, those who chose to dress more formally and wear suspenders were frequently seen as old-fashioned or stuffy. This perception wasn't entirely unfair. Suspenders did represent an earlier era of men's fashion history.
The generational divide became stark. The generations who grew up with suspenders as the default option aged throughout the mid to late 20th century. As they did, braces became associated with old men's clothes. Younger generations had no personal connection to suspenders. They'd grown up wearing belts. To them, suspenders were something their grandfathers wore.
This created a self-fulfilling cycle. If suspenders were perceived as old-fashioned, young men avoided them. This meant the primary wearers of suspenders were indeed older men, which reinforced the stereotype. The generational gap widened with each passing decade.
There's also a practical element to this association. Belts don't often work well with some physical consequences of aging. Changes in posture and loss of muscle definition can make belts uncomfortable or impractical. Suspenders, on the other hand, can help elderly men keep their trousers at the right height without the discomfort of a belt cinching at the waist.
So while suspenders genuinely offered practical benefits for older wearers, this utility came with a social cost. The more suspenders became associated with elderly men, the less appealing they became to younger generations. Being labeled old-fashioned might not seem like a death sentence for an accessory, but in a culture obsessed with youth and novelty, it was nearly fatal. The generation gap transformed suspenders from a universal accessory into a marker of age.
Suspenders for Overweight Men and Elderly Wearers
Suspenders are associated with heavier men, likely because they're a more comfortable option for those with larger midsections than belts. This association added another layer to the negative stereotypes suspenders faced. While there's nothing inherently wrong with this practical application, it became another reason for image-conscious men to avoid wearing braces.
The physics are straightforward. A belt cinches around the waist, creating pressure at a single point. For men with larger midsections, this can be genuinely uncomfortable. The belt digs in, rides up, or simply doesn't sit properly. Suspenders distribute the weight of trousers across the shoulders instead, eliminating waist pressure entirely.
This practical benefit became a liability in terms of perception. If suspenders were seen as something overweight men wore because they had to, not because they wanted to, then wearing suspenders could signal weight issues. Men who didn't fit this category might avoid suspenders specifically to distance themselves from this association.
The elderly face similar practical challenges with belts. As mentioned in the previous section, changes in posture and body composition that come with aging can make belts problematic. A belt that worked fine at age 40 might be uncomfortable or ineffective at age 70. Suspenders solve this problem elegantly by bypassing the waist entirely.
But again, practical solutions created perceptual problems. The more suspenders became associated with physical limitations, whether related to weight or age, the less desirable they became for men who didn't face these limitations. Fashion is often about signaling, and wearing an accessory associated with physical challenges sent a signal most men wanted to avoid. The irony is that suspenders work well for all body types and ages, but these specific associations overshadowed their universal utility.
Yuppies Suspenders: The Michael Douglas Gordon Gecko Era
The 1980s brought suspenders back into the spotlight, but not in a way that helped their long-term reputation. Yuppies suspenders became synonymous with a particular type of ambitious, status-seeking young professional. During this decade, 1940s styles were revived and exaggerated, including high-waisted and pleated pants, so suspenders came along with them.
Young urban professionals, or yuppies, embraced these styles with enthusiasm. They wore suspenders as part of their power dressing uniform. The look signaled ambition, wealth, and corporate success. For a brief period, suspenders were fashionable again, but the association came with significant baggage.
The pursuit of status and wealth by yuppies ultimately encountered backlash. Society grew critical of what they perceived as excessive materialism and superficiality. This criticism extended to the fashion choices associated with this group, including suspenders. The accessory became linked with corporate greed and social climbing.
Michael Douglas Gordon Gecko suspenders in the 1987 film Wall Street became the defining image of this era. Gordon Gecko, the unscrupulous corporate raider, wore suspenders as part of his power suit ensemble. His famous "greed is good" speech cemented the character as a symbol of 1980s excess. Unfortunately for suspenders, they were part of that symbol.
The association was powerful and lasting. After the 1980s ended and the backlash against yuppie culture solidified, suspenders were tainted by their connection to this group. What had been a brief revival turned into another reason to avoid wearing braces. The Michael Douglas Gordon Gecko suspenders image became shorthand for ruthless ambition and questionable ethics. This wasn't the comeback suspenders needed.
Steve Urkel Suspenders and the Nerd Stereotype
While yuppies wore suspenders somewhat seriously, other younger men in the 1980s wore them with a touch of irony. Michael J. Fox's Marty McFly in the Back to the Future films represented this trend, which fizzled quickly. But other pop culture figures wore them more sincerely, serving to reinforce the comedic association suspenders had accumulated over decades in men's fashion history.
Steve Urkel suspenders became the definitive example of the nerd stereotype. Jaleel White's character Steve Urkel from the TV show Family Matters wore suspenders pulled high with flood pants and oversized glasses. The character was deliberately nerdy, socially awkward, and fashion-challenged. His suspenders were a key part of that visual shorthand.
This wasn't the first time suspenders appeared on wacky or nerdy characters. Robin Williams' Mork from Mork and Mindy also wore suspenders as part of his alien-trying-to-fit-in-on-Earth costume. These characters reinforced the idea that suspenders were inherently funny or out of touch with contemporary style.
The Steve Urkel suspenders association proved particularly damaging because the show was enormously popular and ran from 1989 to 1998. An entire generation grew up watching this character and associating suspenders with social ineptitude. The image was so strong that even today, mentioning suspenders often brings Steve Urkel to mind for people of a certain age.
The nerd stereotype added yet another reason for style-conscious men to avoid suspenders. Between the old-fashioned associations, the yuppie connections, and now the nerd image, suspenders had accumulated too much cultural baggage. What had once been a neutral, practical accessory was now loaded with meaning, almost all of it negative. The comedic tradition that began in vaudeville had found its way into modern television, and suspenders paid the price.
Skinheads Suspenders: The Dark Side of Braces
One subculture that adopted suspenders in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s was the skinheads. They specifically favored thin clip-style suspenders as part of their uniform. While adherents were situated across the political spectrum then and now, violent far-right factions became most prominent in the public consciousness. This created an inarguably negative association for suspenders in popular culture.
Skinheads suspenders were visually distinct from traditional button-on braces. The thin, clip-style design became a recognizable element of the subculture's aesthetic. They wore them with work boots, jeans or work trousers, and bomber jackets or polo shirts. The look was deliberately working-class and confrontational.
The skinhead movement itself was complex and diverse. It originated in Britain in the 1960s, drawing from working-class youth culture and West Indian influences. Early skinheads weren't necessarily political. However, as the movement evolved, far-right extremist factions became increasingly visible and violent.
Media coverage focused heavily on these violent elements, particularly incidents of racist violence and neo-Nazi affiliations. This coverage created a strong association in the public mind between skinheads and far-right extremism. By extension, the visual markers of skinhead culture, including thin suspenders, became associated with these negative elements.
For suspenders, this was perhaps the most damaging association of all. Being seen as old-fashioned or nerdy was one thing. Being potentially linked to violent extremism was another entirely. Most men had no interest in accidentally signaling alignment with such groups. The skinheads suspenders connection added a final, dark layer to the negative stereotypes that had accumulated around this once-innocent accessory. It was another nail in the coffin for suspenders as mainstream menswear.
Custom Tailored Trousers with Suspender Buttons at Westwood Hart
Despite the complex history and negative associations suspenders have accumulated, they remain a practical and stylish choice for men who appreciate classic menswear. At Westwood Hart, we understand that properly fitted trousers with traditional suspender buttons offer unmatched comfort and a timeless aesthetic.
Our custom tailoring service allows you to specify suspender buttons on any of our trouser designs. Whether you prefer high-rise trousers that sit at the natural waist or modern mid-rise styles, we can accommodate your preference. We use quality buttons that are securely sewn and positioned correctly for optimal suspender function.
The beauty of custom tailoring is that you're not limited by what manufacturers decide to include or exclude. While ready-to-wear trousers have largely abandoned suspender buttons, our made-to-measure approach puts the choice back in your hands. You can design trousers that work perfectly with your preferred method of keeping them in place.
We also offer a range of trouser styles that pair beautifully with suspenders. From classic pleated designs to flat-front options, from formal suiting fabrics to casual chinos, our collection provides the foundation for excellent suspender wear. Each garment is constructed with attention to detail and finished to your exact measurements.
Visit our online configurator today to design your custom trousers with suspender buttons. Choose your fabric, rise, pleat style, and all the details that matter to you. Our tailoring team will craft trousers that fit impeccably and include the traditional features that modern menswear too often overlooks.
Frequently Asked Questions
When did men stop wearing suspenders?
Men largely stopped wearing suspenders by the end of the 1940s. While suspenders were the primary trouser accessory from the 1820s through the early 1940s, World War II cloth rationing, changing trouser styles, and the resurgence of belts led to their decline. By the 1950s, belts had reclaimed the number one position as the preferred method for keeping trousers up.
Why are suspenders better than belts?
Suspenders distribute weight across the shoulders rather than cinching at the waist, making them more comfortable for many men, especially those with larger midsections or posture issues. They work particularly well with high-rise trousers and formal attire. Suspenders also allow trousers to drape more naturally and eliminate the pressure point created by belts.
Were suspenders considered underwear?
Yes, up until the 1940s, suspenders were widely considered underwear and inappropriate to display in public. Men wore waistcoats or kept their suit jackets on to ensure suspenders remained hidden. In 1938, a Long Island town even tried to ban men from wearing visible suspenders without a coat, calling it sartorial indecency.
Why did soldiers prefer belts over suspenders?
During World War II, belts proved more practical on the battlefield than suspenders. They were easier to adjust quickly, more durable in combat conditions, and better suited to carrying equipment. While suspenders were issued to troops, belts ultimately became the preferred option for military use, influencing civilian fashion after the war.
Do trousers still come with suspender buttons?
Most modern ready-to-wear trousers do not include suspender buttons. Manufacturers began removing them in the 1920s and 1930s as belt loops became standard. Levi Strauss removed suspender buttons from their trousers in 1937. Today, suspender buttons are typically only found on custom-tailored trousers or specialty menswear when specifically requested.
What cultural groups wore suspenders in the 1980s?
In the 1980s, suspenders were primarily associated with yuppies (young urban professionals) who wore them as part of power dressing with high-waisted, pleated trousers. The Gordon Gecko character in Wall Street epitomized this look. Simultaneously, skinhead subcultures wore thin clip-style suspenders, and nerdy characters like Steve Urkel wore them for comedic effect on television.
Can you still wear suspenders today?
Yes, suspenders remain a viable accessory for men who appreciate classic menswear. They work best with formal attire like suits and sport coats, particularly when paired with high-rise trousers. However, they require trousers with suspender buttons, which often means choosing custom-tailored options. Men who wear suspenders today should be aware of the various cultural associations but can wear them confidently as part of traditional formal dress.
Why are high-rise trousers important for suspenders?
High-rise trousers that sit at the natural waist are ideal for suspenders because they provide the proper positioning and drape. When trousers sit lower on the hips, suspenders don't work as effectively and can look awkward. The decline of high-rise trouser styles during and after World War II was a major factor in suspenders falling out of favor, as lower-rise pants were better suited to belts.